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If you were closer I would traded you my RSR for the greddy. RSR is insanely loud... especially in this state.

^^-- I'm with duane on this one. You can only go so far with stock drivetrains.

Your like comparing apples and oranges. Bore, stroke, valvetrain configurations, cams, all play a role. My 7M is loud on HKS DP, RSR full exhaust, no cat, bored .040 block, fully rebuilt.... blah blah blah. Before my motor pooped, my RSR on the same exhaust configure was more quite and easier...

I have my original Charcoal canister, but tossed my heater control valve. My greddy Catch can sit nice in tight without heat soaking. Only true heat I have notice is from my feed line from the valve covers.

It is the new supra. Toyota talks of switching over to all Lexus and keeping scion as the tuner line. I don't know if its true since it is all talk. The LFA is the new SUPRA.

Use toyota FIPG ( RTV) in those location ( Badass stuff). Make sure you straight edge the block for warpage too prior to putting the head on. While the head is off replace the EGR cooler gasket (toyota gasket only)( if you plan on running the EGR system). Torque accordlying to TSRM at 80 FT...

Not worth it. Go water to air for just draging or drift and air to air for all others. Just like Grim said, I would rather invest in a Water meth injection kit.

Apply PSi (air compressor or bike pump)to the wastegate and see if the arm fully moves. Sounds like to me the wastegate or flapper door has some kind of problem.

An upgraded trim will have different flow characteristic then a stock CT in boost. Tuning is a must If you don't want to run into problems. This has been beaten to death on... search and you will find that fuel is a must and maintenance.

CHeck the Banjo and bolt for the booster line. Check the check valve inline there too. Over time the passage way can be clogged with oil and carbon.

Speed density, MAFT, Standalone. The SAFC will not solve the problem. The AFM will still read unmeter air. Best way to fix this without digging out your wallet,bank account,sell some supra parts is to reroute back into the intake system.

7MGTE- pull type clutch-r154 7MGE- push type- w58 So no it won't.

Sorry J dub. Just stating possibilities that is why I threw it out there ( not saying it is the problem). My general rule of thumb is compression/leak down. Just about as basic as a car owner can get when coming down to diagnosing a problem. PS... upon starting my fresh rebuild motor, we...

Nice. K thanks.. after carefully reading Haynes again I see that the only sequence they should was the removal of the head and not the install. That is were I misread it. Still they are short on information on the 7M. Only diagrams and full description was on the 5M motors. Well I'm only...

Well I have babble with this for awhile and wanna see if anyone has done what I did too. According to Haynes you start the torquing sequence on the outer corner studs then work to the middle. On TSRM it starts from the middle out. Not trusting Haynes I went the TSRM way. Could it have...

Yep. Fix and clear those codes the give us compression readings across. Good luck.

Nice. Napa has o rings that is close to HKS diameter.

Phantom Knock is when knock sensor picks up loud ticks or loose parts instead of pinging (detonation). It is a known word in the DSM community and others. Guess it is new here then. Still possible that it can happen. "A knock that doesn't relate to combustion that is detected by the ECU and...

I can point out a few things. AFM, coolant temp sensor, spark blowout, compression lost, turbo dying, timing, phantom knock..... but best way to tackle this is compression and leak down test. Most if these you should consider if still on the factory computer.

I would go OEM. The OEM ones have a jiggle valve, rubber seal around the thermostat piston, properly tensioned spring. You pay for what you get. OEM has other different available temps rating.