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Hey guys I think IJ is right on. Its all about prioritizing your budget. I mean just because you have the money to get car parts at the time, doesn't mean you should. At the same time one has to spend his money on what he values though. The trick is to find a good balance between wants and...

I look forward to seeing those numbers Albert. A rev that high with that much power is pretty awesome... Why don't u jz guys post torque numbers tho? I would like to see those too!...:icon_razz......

U nasty moosenucklin dusty dicks

I'm gonna try real hard to be patient with you..you started this exact same thread a few days ago, and now come back asking the same questions without checking any of the things we told u to check in the first thread...we're gonna give u the same answers! Go back and read what we told u and come...

The TSRM* will help u I meant**

Just be prepared to dig into it! When u get the valve covers off you will be able to see the cams and the top of the valves (lifters and shims). Maybe if your lucky and check clearances between the shims and cams you might find the problem. However you will most likely have to take the cams out...

7m can be sneaky about knock. mine sounded top end but was actually bottom, so listen on the bottom end too. As said before...take the valve covers off and check clearances. A typical problem are the shims. Search it and you will find plenty of info on it.

Of course u can have a vacuum leak under boost when the pressure gets greater it exposes leaks.

^vaccuum could be a culprit but I'm confused....isn't an a/f ratio less than 14.7 rich? According to my thinking u should be right where u want to be?

Do all this and come back with some more info...try using a block of wood, rubber hose, screwdriver handle, or actual stethocope to narrow down where it is coming from, but do it quickly and STOP revving the shit out of it! If it is knock your only doing more damage to things. Check the crank...

Slap a walbro 255 or mk4 pump in there and an afpr and FTW!

? When u cut the spark to a cylinder ignition does not happen. If there is no ignition in the cylinder the rod and piston are not compressing, so the noise stops. This should happen in every case unless it is a bearing issue where the crank turning would still cause the noise regardless of spark...

Knock should stop if you pull the a park plug to the cylinder...and for the radio, you have to turn the key all the way off. The key can still come out even if it isn't all the way off

Jesus man...were trying to help you but your not ruling anything out. You can't fix a problem if you don't know what the problem is. You have to start ruling things out one by one. So you have spark, your car sometimes cranks and sometimes fires, idles, then dies? Did you check for codes? When...

Idk man...first of all, a widowed elderly lady answering a Craigslist mechanic add?...the only Craigslist she has prly ever heard of is her grandson Craigs Christmas list. And u show up to change a tire in a Supra?...just weird. This imaginary lady obviously doesn't know anything about cars or...

Looks nice, waiting to buy one..

Yeah u know wat I mean..lol

Interesting concept. But i don't think I would like it because it would take away the feeling of the car "pulling" throughout the powerband, it wud just shoot u like a rocket. According to the power curve in the graph it would get u to max power very fast (which is cool) but then your done...

^lmao so ur the guy giving away parts ehh...what else u got?

Why not call them anyway and see what they say. I wouldn't take chances on something that important to the motor. I'm not even in the same galaxy as Devin or IJ (or half the guys on the forum for that matter) when it comes to knowing my shit, all I'm saying is if I paid for something I would...