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The extra pressure helps to find potential leaks in your cooling system :p ha. No seriously though, its mostly about raising the boiling point of the water i.e: more of a margin before the cooling system becomes completely inefficient. There are commercially available additives that "can"...

yep, sorry, 1.4 bar was my upgraded "TRD" rad cap. Agreed, most oils start to break down/lose their shear strength at this temp, so i'd start watching it once it heads north of 110 degrees centigrade.

Yep, you'd be wise to focus on the undertray instead :) Those upper cooling panels to two-tenths of fark all. Check out the underside of your bonnet, its designed to do exactly the same thing, so you're unlikely to see any efficiency from that panel, other than to hide your radiator...

Are you talking about a "cooling plate" around the bonnet catch by any chance?

Haha, that's funny, we're doing the reverse with our rims. What size tyres are you running on the 18's?

Wheels look great :) But i'm not biased or anything! haha. Shame we're so far away, our cars would make a good evil pair cruising the streets together! That 10W-60 Nulon should be good - I ran the Castrol Edge equivalent in my old JZ cause I was experiencing low oil pressure at idle after...

ah cool. thanks for clarifying.

The sleeves are usually swaged with the fitting at the time of manufacture, so the cutter-style screw together fittings couldn't accommodate them. Is that what you're referring to though?

BTW I don't know what your registration laws are over in the US, but we wouldn't be able to pass inspection with those lines described above, as they need to have anti-whip sleeves at each fitting. No problem for racecars of course, but no good for road use.

Man, you get your hoses so much cheaper over there..... I'd be looking at minimum $140 to do the same here.

Yep... i'll be going some custom lines for sure. Do it once, do it properly. That way you can also come out of the caliper with a 45 or 60 degree banjo, so there's less of a bend on the hose to meet the bracket on the body.

Hold on...... just stepping backward for a moment on the brake line leak issue: Do the Evo calipers have a tapered seat at the bottom of the brake line boss? Mine haven't turned up yet so I can't check. If the MK3 OEM lines are made for a tapered seat in the factory caliper - but the Evo...

Where is the best place to order pre-made braided brake lines from? I can walk into a local workshop and have them made, but the labour is a killer, and I don't have stock hoses to use as the mockup. Cheers

Be patient on the valve-stem issue, and you could get lucky. It may rectify itself after a few heat cycles to soften up the seal material. My motor showed exactly the same symptoms when first fitted (ex-jap import with ??? km), but came good. I see your dilemma with the track vs street...

That's pretty much it - with added caster you are actually lifting the weight of the front of the car each time that you turn the steering wheel, puts increased loads on the power steering (or your arms in a non-assisted vehicle!). Just remember with your camber - the more you go on the front...

The heim joints definitely take any flex out of the equation, so your alignment stays true regardless of which way the suspension is loaded. Also stops energy being stored in the bushes (wasted) which can help eliminate axle hop etc. Bad side: shock loads are transferred directly to the...

Only issue with maxing out the upper arms (to the shortest setting) is that your minimum camber will be somewhere around neg 3.5 i'd estimate. If you're happy with this, then go nuts :) There is quite a bit of adjustment scope in the rear with the OEM bars, I'd be keen on adjustable upper...

That seems to be a highly debatable point regarding the 10 degrees caster run "back in the day"....... Though I agree in concept that most track cars respond well to an approach where the maximum caster achievable is run. There are almost no events over here that cater for our cars, so class...

I've got the Beech upper arms fitted to mine, it's a much better option than running a longer LCA in my opinion, as it reduces the track rather than narrows it, which means more aggressive wheel fitment is possible also without scrubbing the guards (and there's plenty of clearance on the...

oh......... I didn't know it was a JAR special :p If it worries you to have that radiator, with the Aussie dollar doing fairly well, the reputable Koyo radiators are a good option. I plan to grab one soon.