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"Stick open"? Wtf? Then why did you tell me "Wrong, sorry" to this???

No, sounds like a different problem. Check for diagnostic codes, and also check for vac leaks, and check the connector to the ISCV. But I'm just shooting in the dark here.

Unplug your AFM, and plug it back in; if you're lucky, it's just a bad connection. If you're unlucky, it may be a bad AFM.

Everybody is right on target with their suggestions here. And like suprapowaz said- getting a good intake and exhaust will not get you to 350hp, but it will get you at least 30+hp over stock. Everyone is suggesting the 550's & Lexus MAF, as they are a proven power maker, but I also humbly...

If the wastegate is binding, that means it would be binding open, not closed. Otherwise he'd have boost creep or worse. You must mean to check to see if its not seating on the port- ie: the rod it's connected to has slipped so that the wastegate flapper is not aligned with its port. I could see...

:) Yeah, I got on of those ppp gaskets for the intake. Don't know if it does much, but it doesn't leak. I did have the bottom of my intake gasket blow out once; symptoms included hissing when accelerating lightly, normal driving behavior, but horrible idle. Since you haven't mentioned it yet, I...

A brand new radiator shroud is like $75. http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getLocator&siteid=213983&chapter=AMM805&appSectionid=8&groupid=20035&subgroupid=60549&componentid=0&make=34&model=Supra&year=1990&graphicID=F805025&callout=11&catalogid=1 I use an aftermarket...

I just picked up a set of 6 Evo 8 injectors today. You need Bosch EV-1 type connectors. I just got 6 on Ebay for $35 shipped.

Yup- I had that happen to me too. Sounds exactly like rodknock. As for changing the bearings, who knows? Kinda depends on what caused the rodknock. Oil starvation could have gouged the crank journals, an out-of-round rod end would have to be resized.

Could be that too, assuming that it's sticking open slightly. More reason to shim the wastegate.

Well, at least you are successful in narrowing down your search.

Did this suddenly just begin happening one day? And do you have any diagnistic codes? ~750-850rpm warm idle is pretty much ideal. Is it a steady idle, or is it stumbling up and down? As mentioned, check for vac leaks, such as any unplugged vac hoses, and spray carb cleaner strategically...

Shim the wastegate, that'll give you a bit. Then do as these guys say- check to make sure you tightened all connectors.

The only way a shock would change ride height is if the spring perch welded to it was lower than stock.

Okay...Why doesn't your BPV release? That surge can't be good for the turbo.

There isn't a spec for snout diameter; It's not a wear point. I will tell you that I once had a pulley come loose and wobble till it screwed up the snout. Is this the damage you have? It caused one side of the keyway's wall to become angled, and no longer vertical, allowing the woodruff key to...

I have had the MAFT 1.0 on my car for at least 7 years, and never, ever had an issue with it. It gives you the ability to select almost any size injector, and adjust the AFR at different RPM@ WOT, and at different throttle positions. There are a few other abilities, but nothing that comes close...

Yup. R.K. isn't always noticeable at all rpms. In fact, it usually reveals itself at light throttle, between 2500-3500rpm, at least in my experience. Loose shim clearances sound to me like someone typing really fast on a manual typewriter under the valve covers.

No, but I have tried the Flex-a-Lite FLX-210 setup that has a built-in shround and an electric thermostat. Long story short, I went back to OEM fan with clutch, and a brand new OEM shroud, which only cost $76. You can't beat the OEM cooling fan.