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What is different in the materials from the hi perf and standard if anyone knows?

rad cap not sealing so it allows pressure out but will not allow suction back out of tank. (pulling vac around cap)

i did the driftmotion kit, on stock boost i increased 50hp. upped the pressure to 15psi and put down 355hp 403 tq

First off i would not bypass the fuse box, or you are gonna be running power to everything at charging voltage. correct that issue first. you have fuses for circuit protection and with that bypassed you are taking a big risk. You issue might be in that you are sending the wrong voltage to ecu...

Gates is gates right quality is in the name. Given they are a good brand whats dif from the standard belt and hi perf belt? what would make it last longer? design? color? i would imagine they use the same material in all their belts right?

But spending 90 for 3 belts compared to 30 for regular gates belts? what is the dif between their hi perf and standard?

I would agree with wrong dipstick. Bad turbo most likely creating intercooler oiling, unless the pcv system is that plugged causing oil to actually be sucked into inlet side of turbo. The gaskets leaking, all of them, either improper install or prep work. But very likely of system being...

That would work also, possibly with head off also? Think measurements might give you more a little more accuracy though

so its a fresh rebuild on a locked up engine? you say video of it running? from when now or past? you cps may be good but not instlled correctly? can you run codes on it.

no j-tube is on side of engine under intake manifold and yes it is return line to tank.

the tsrm for diagram. check the harness around where you added the clutch pedal bracket and what not. may have a pinched wire or two. have you checked fuses?

the higher the better. specially on turbo cars.

What is so high performance about a belt? I can see not wanting to skimp on a timing belt being the if it breaks your engine is done. But accessory belts? I would not waste the money on high performance blue belts. Just my opinion. I do imagine they can handle more tension and last longer, but...

+1 for 91 or higher

You can check the tsrm for pinouts between the two engines. Also there you can get proper testing procedures to check your cps which i believe controls spark and fuel? Spark for sure iffy on the fuel. As far as your pump not working with key on that is correct operation, only works when cranking...

Feeler gauge in between edge and head or block. As far as squareness goes you could find a way to measure the head surface to the valve cover seal area on all four corners and through out the sides? Would need some sort of caliper, digital or whatever. From there you could determine about how...

Drill out or bypass the j-tube, they have a bypass kit also. also these cars run way better on 91 octane or higher. So try and drain your gas and put in 91 and go from there. Also back to the j-tube deal, i actually only thought you needed to drill or delete when upgrading the hole fuel...

You would think the block would have to be noticably warped to leak with gravity. How did the engine run before? if it did? If you got that much of a leak i am almost betting that the gasket is at fault. Defective or what not, given the engine ran before and was not overheated to an extreme.

Yeah that is my plan on this one. I am probably gonna do 2 heat cycles re-tq two more and double check. Figure being everything is straight on block and head and just a few hundred miles since machine i should be in the clear for atleast 50k. My engine is modded runs 15psi and 371hp/416tq and...

Yeah i actually just got the head on and torqued down. I spent like 3 hours cleaning head and block. I did take out two rivets that i felt would cause an issue (the front passenger side and rear passenger side) Made sure bolt holes were clean and dry along with studs. dipped nuts in 30w no moly...