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Either PCV (lots of blowby dying rings) or a dying Turbo :(

Natan's advice is good! This is pretty well how I leaned to weld as I didn't have access to anything else at the time (13 years old couldn't afford anything let alone a Mig) Once you have the basics of melting the weld zone on both pieces of parent metal and adding filler wire to form the...

Mig is the easiest for beginners. I've taught quite a few people the basics and most can lay down an acceptable bead within 15 minutes even though they've never welded before.

It's actually a Mk3 with the new Dolucomex Lincon body kit! ;) Happy BDay Shags!

SK: Dunno mine were a bolt on (Mk4 rotors Mk3 park brake) It was a deciding factor in using the Mk4 rotors and not going to Hats/Rotors.

Mk4 and Mk3 parking brake is the same SK ;)

Whatever that is ;)! (gotta remember I'm old and new to all this fangled fancy stuff!)

LOL yep ranging from not very accurate and cheap to really accurate and expensive! Common thing seems to be sensors have a habit of not lasting too long depending on how they're used! I'll use my Tuners wideband until it's tuned then put my own in ;) (rich is bad for em up there with...

AM: Same boat here and after LOTS of research the WB is a tuning tool but it can't change anything on it's own! (really expensive systems can force a preset AF but that's not always the best)

From memory yep it was 5mm off the diameter! I used AP Racing 4 spots front and rear with small pistons in the rear so the balance is perfect!

Another advantage to doing the hubs is while they're in the lathe is I machined some spacers out of aluminium pressed them onto the centre of the hub then turned them to Mk4 size so the discs run perfectly concentric! :)

You meed to remove 5mm I did the hubs as I feel it's safer.

Might be better to machine the Hub rather than the rotor that way if ya kill a disc you can buy one off the shelf!

Cass: Going Mk4 on the front?

They didn't always fit so well ;) (I worked with them to sort the fit issues)

Dunno as I said I'd just flush it really well with straight water then use normal coolant as it works and if you have to dump the Prestone so be it. Not worth the risk as 7M's are so prone to coolant issues anyway. The stray current thing is well worth getting right as it's not covered by...

I'd just flush it through with straight water and use normal coolant. Colour doesn't matter as long as it's a silicate <sp> free coolant. Get an analogue multimeter (one with a needle a digital won't work) Take the rad cap off put one lead to earth on the battery and the other in the...

Colin: The outlet is a touch smaller but stock hoses fit You can maybe epoxy the crack (glue a piece of plastic over the crack when you repair it to strengthen the join) the shroud helps but you can run without it. I'm not sure how the Turbo electrics are wired but I'd assume 1 is AC...

Can't see how that works as you have to remove the springs to adjust Koni's (You press them full down and the piston engages the adjuster then you turn the shaft)

Stretch: It's not really a case of which is better it's more which turbo has been matched correctly. If you use a tight AR on the turbine to make it spool faster you run the risk of overspeeding the turbo or getting creep/spikes and so on. In the past plain bearing turbos took a bit of...