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NICE. Thanks for the info!

Anyway- If you're REALLY worried about them backing out, you might want to saftey wire them. You'll have to have a shop drill a tiny hole through the heads, and then you run a wire through them, basically connecting them all to each other. That keeps them from turning. I would expect that high...

If you can afford a $12,000 used car, why not get a $2,500 late 90's civic? They're bullet-proof, and you wouldn't have to sell the supra. I've been driving a 94 civic DX, and the only problem it's ever had was a waterpump failure and a cv axle replaced on driver's side because it made a...

Or buy a MAFT or MAFT pro as a path to future upgrades. With either, you can run an atmospheric BOV, since you get rid of the Mass air sensor.

So... did anyone go to the Duluth meet? I was cleaning my car up to go over, but was called into work. I did spot a red Mk III on Sugarloaf pkwy around 4pm, headed that way. Was that anyone on here?

Sorry I hadn't posted to this thread earlier- never saw it! I have a grey 88 5spd targa, bought in September 1996 with 144,000 miles. After two full rebuilds and two cylinder head changes between 1997 and 2005, I swapped the NA for a turbo motor in 2005, in unknown condition. The only work to...

I'm apprised too. Very apprised.:: alky ::

Doubt it's the O2 sensor- If it was dead, you'd prolly get a code for that. And when it's working, it doesn't go to closed loop till the engine warms up(as mentioned above). AKA- the ECU and motor don't care what the O2 sensor report until things have warmed up. Besides, if you're going to...

You weren't very clear- Does it crank with the key and not start? If not, then yes- it's possibly the alarm system, but it may also be the starter solenoid, a known offender in these cars. I especially suspect this, as you said they could jump start it- I assume that means they're contcting the...

Mine is fine when cold, though a bit more like an on-off switch. It sounds like the fuel ratio is lean.

Don't know if this'll help, but a while back, I was driving along and the car just shut down. When I checked the fuses- the EFI was blown. I replaced it, and as soon as I tried to start, it blew. After like 5 fuses, I found that part of the harness was resting on the intake manifold near the...

The T-stat would not be competing against the fan, as the T-stat's job is not to cool the engine- It's job is to permit or prevent flow to the rad. The fan's job is to cool the engine. I used to have twin FAL's installed in my car, and they worked fine until the fan controller crapped out. Then...

there IS such a thing as being TOO jdm tight, yo.

Yeah- what he said- If the light comes on during hard accel or hard braking, it's definately the fluid level.

Another issue to consider is your exhaust. If you have any blockage, it'll reduce the amount of boost you can produce.

Nice work man!

I've run the MAF-T in suck-thru and blow-thru mode, but again, that's using a GM sensor. It won't really work with our OEM units. I have the MAF about 1.5 - 2ft from the TB in the IC piping.

Yup.

How long has this problem existed? I didn't see you mention that. I have lost boost over the period of about two weeks- went from 13psi to 6psi due to a blocked cat. If you had a boost leak big enough to keep you at 2-3 psi, then you might be able to hear it- it'll sound like a bunch of...

You want a rising rate FPR, or a 1:1 boost reference FPR(others please chime in) if I recall. You can either bypass the J-tube entirely, or drill out the end to remove the restriction. I did this, as It was off the car and I didn't have to worry about metal shavings.