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Can't say as to the ride height, but most of the non-turbo Supras came without any wing, unless they had the sport package. Shouldn't be too hard to find a wingless(hole-less) hatch. PS- dark leather interior? Do you mean the maroon or blue interior? If so, yes, those are stock colors.

And on your extensive list of mods and upgrades, I didn't see anything about your cooling system. I have to ask- What type of radiator and cap are you using? Seeing as you have thousands of dollars in engine management, and upgraded internal parts, I assume you're on an upgraded rad?

yeah, like $15-20 each. And...you have a paint gun...ok....good... And you also have a dust-free, humidity-controlled paintbooth? Just sayin- don't expect perfect results in your garage, but as long as you wet-sand/ buff the paint before clearcoat, it'll probably come out ok.

ps- while you've got the tail lights out- replace the seals for them. They're pretty cheap from the dealer, and will keep water out of your hatch area.

The price for a new set of steering bushings from the factory is about~$45. The best price I've ever seen for replacement front subframe bushings, is about $33(x4) each. The rears are two different types, the two rearmost are about $20 each. The 4 front ones...You don't even want to know.

Looks really nice. Post a sound clip if you get the opportunity. I plan to replace my fart can with a Borla once I get to my engine build stage. Still working on the front suspension stage though, so it has to wait. But I did buy the muffler and the tips: I think I'll copy your example...

It's not. Check the firewall tag(Chassis code). Some cars have different designations on the door tag or dash tag, but an "MA71" there would indicate a turbo car, and is part of the VIN, not the chassis code.

Yeah, to me, upper adjustable arms make more sense than lower arms.

I would have kept it the same color myself. The only decent way to paint a car a completely different color, is to strip it down completely and do the interior, engine bay and jambs. I HATE seeing a supra with a nice paint job, then you open the hood and see a different color firewall. But, if...

Really? That's good, so now we know for sure it's the fan clutch. Oh yeah- I was gonna ask- HOW did you determine that the fan clutch is your problem?

So I...guess...I'll PayPal you $220, and I'll receive fronts+ steering bushings in about a week? PS- that's a pretty good guess. I came up with $39.75 for a 1kg parcel+ security fee. Assuming a 1 week timeframe from payment to mail-out, I'm in. If this is a correct assumption, let me know, and...

Drop a tps? Just test the resistances per the tsrm, and adjust its position if necessary. Use the search function for "knock sensor rewire" there's a number of threads about it. With a code 52, you're losing half your wot power.

Do the simple things; Check for tight connections at all four points- TPS, AFM and both KS plugs. If no changes, Test and adjust TPS per TSRM. Test AFM per TSRM. Have you done a knock sensor rewire yet on this car?

Stick with a fan clutch. More reliable. I used to have Flex-a-lite 210's and the thermo control fried on it, allowing it to overheat. Then a temp sensor fried on it, allowing it to overheat. The a connector came loose, allowing it to overheat. Also, electric fans will run on for like 5+ minutes...

You still haven't answered 3P's question- Have you checked for codes?

Teeny update from Canukistan: I'm stuck in a hotel room in Vancouver right now, but I did order a few parts: Aaron at Driftmotion will be sending me a new set of brake lines to fit the Cobra brake upgrade- the final parts that I needed to complete the conversion. I also just ordered new front...

By 'timing is dead on', do you mean the ignition timing? Can you verify that the cam timing is definitely correct? ps- Love the new pic, JJ. It should be entitled- "Meanwhile, Down under..." OR- "Meanwhile, during I.J.'s commute"...

Today, I ordered new upper control arms for the front suspension restoration I'm doing.

It's an EBay unit from a long time ago. It's also being replaced for a slightly larger one. It fills the entire space perfectly between the two frame rails, but it was with a kaminari bumper, set back a bit. So I can't say as to wether it'd fill the factory grill.

Ok, zip 30046. I'm guessing this'll be roughly a 1.5 lb package?