Eric: Glad to help it's a real old school thing and most times doing it this way you can press the seal in 90% with your fingers so you don't deform it trying to hammer it in a light tap with a soft face hammer or piece of wood and you're all done!
2a: Put a thin coat of permatex #4 around the outside of the new seal and some grease around the inner lip this will let it slide into place and when the permatex sets it will stop the seal leaking or moving if you get blowby from engine wear.
I'm the last person to be a "Leave it stock Nazi" the only part on my car that's stock is the Diff and that's next on the list!
But at least try and understand what it is what it does and then have a good reason to remove it!
As JJ's pointed out the more a car is hacked up the harder it...
Ok points to consider.
What material is the bottle
What Temper if any
What Temp does the Powder Coating process use
If all of this checks out and you get it coated then retested they WILL restamp the bottle trashing the Coating in that area.....
as I said too much hassle for...
Only "issue" I had was when a stock bump rubber split and I bottomed a shock smashing the damper piston inside! (Get good bump stops)
Other than that no leaks no problems at all!
I went Eibach this time as they offer a great choice in rates and the quality/consistancy is right up there!
Devil: I think with a .83ar turbine it would deliver it's power the same as my 7M with it's 1.06ar and to me it's just about perfect as it doesn't have a huge hit until 4500 but below that pulls like a 15 year old boy!
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.