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Yes, you're missing your egr cooler plate thingy, but you need to verify that you have the egr valve itself. The plate simply acts as a channel for the exhaust gases to move from the right side of picture 2(where the rightmost blockoff plate is), to the open hole on the left side. That gas...

You say that the intake cam is at a 10:30 position @tdc? Both cams should have their timing marks lined up to the timing marks on the upper rear timing cover when at tdc. Verify that your #1 piston is indeed at tdc by pulling the spark plug and checking, rather than relying on the lower cover...

Good point. If the pp is completely unbolted, then the fork is not the issue.

All I'm going to say is- people named Supraguy are not allowed to give up on their cars. :)

The Kaminari whaletail is sort of a ducktail spoiler, but a little bit bigger than most people like

Did you pull the clutch fork straight out yet? If not, THAT is your last 'bolt'. Be ready for the tranny to just drop out after that.

Sounds good to me.

I do plan on porting/polishing the replacement head. It looked fine, i just figured i'd use my old head since it already had the p&p work done. Fact is, though, that the replacement head is not stripped out on the ex. studs, and the cams look to be in better shape as well. Also, i measured the...

Yes.

The Kaminari wing was the perfect middle ground between stock and the Greddy/Gracer.

I don't think my Supra will be on the road by then, but if it's a Celica/Supra/Mr2 meet(the entire Toyota old-school sport lineup), I'll attend, lol.

Metal Finishers of Atlanta. http://metalfinishersofatlanta.com/

Well, the head has been dropped off at the machine shop, and I picked up my zinc parts: Now, every nut, bolt and bracket that hasn't been zinc'ed is going to make the engine bay look horrible, lol.

My fault. I used a cheapo coolant, rather than Toyota red. I kept telling myself i needed to switch back, but i never got around to it. It took about 5 years to erode to that point.

I only have one picture for you guys today, my cylinder head's coolant ports: Unacceptable. I don't think the head can be milled down far enough to remove the defects around the coolant ports(ALL of the exhaust side, none of the intake side), so I have to begin fresh on my backup head. Tore...

I had the following done: Hot tank Line bore Bore/ hone Crank polished/ balanced Rods checked Rod/piston sets weight matched Deck cut for mhg with timing cover Shop purchased arp mains and all clevites $1150 No assembly Pistons and rods purchased seperately.

150 for everything. I had about 2 dozen different parts, ranging in size from a tiny spacer for the throttle body shaft spring, to as large as the vacuum tubing manifold that bolts under the front of the intake, and all sorts of bolts, nuts, brackets, clamps, and accessory mounts. It cost $50...

LOL. Just removed all of my helicoils. One was pulling out slightly, so I decided to go 7/16 with them.

Took apart the head... Thankfully, I found that both exhaust valve stem seals on #5 had popped, and that's where the extra oil burning was coming from. I also noticed that while the intake stem seals were a pain to pry off the guides, the exhaust seals popped off easy-peasy. Obviously the...