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Then I pulled the whaletail, for fiberglass repair and modification.

Tinted my tails.

You could try 5.25 midbass in the rears.

Its a very good idea. I would recommend applying some GT mat/ dynamat to the inside of the fender, to reduce vibration/ resonance.

No, no in-car pics. And dimensions are in the first post.

You have no way of checking or adjusting your fuel pressure. You need to check your Vf signal to see how much the TCCS is having to correct on the closed loop AFR. Also, the car will generally run rough for a few miles after resetting the ECU.

Hornet- Where are you in Atlanta? Are you on the Georgia Supra owners Facebook page?

I got them off Ebay. They attatch with three sets of flat stainless plates that bond to the glass by 3M double adhesive. Each plate has a threaded post that sticks up to pass through the edge of the louver, and then uses a black acorn nut to fasten it. The top two plates, however, are hinged, so...

I hear you on that. I'm still on the fence, but decided to get them, since I can always get rid of them if I decide not to use them.

So, this just came in today. There was some talk about louvers on Facebook, and it got me a bit nostalgic, so I bought one. As you can see, this is the ABS louver, not the aluminum unit. I didn't like the angularity of the metal ones, so I opted for this. Plus, I couldn't FIND aluminum...

Aw snap.

Great job, man. On the MAFT, does it help your fuel cut if you set a frequency clamp? Mine didn't seem to make much difference.

Thanks for looking, Drogon. Yeah, It'll be awhile till I have the new rear carpet in place, plus I have to do a lot of wiring work in the hatch area, so I don't think I'll get the chance to take any in-place pics for a while yet.

Not much at all done lately, just built a sub box. Full writeup/ pics are in the audio section.

I figured that I'd post in here, since NOBODY ever does. I had begun to fiberglass a spare tire sub box, but decided against it at the last second. 1)- I want to carry a spare tire, and 2)- I was afraid that the sub would cause the rear deck to rattle if it was mounted below. Anyway- this is...

You wipe the bearing/ crank surfaces clean, place a piece of plastigauge across the crank journal, and torque the rod cap/ main cap down. You then remove the cap, and compare the width of the crushed plastigauge to the reference widths printed on the plastigauge sleeve. The fatter the line, the...

Lol. I'm passing two years on my build now. We have ALOT in common with our build sheets. What pistons did you put in it, and what engine management are you using? Looks great, btw.

Well, i thinks that port is at least close to the size ofthe stock port, so i think it could handle more than stock pressure, since many people go higher hp than stock, and retain the original bpv. Another option, would be to add a second port, and use double bpv's. But i think it would be...

I cut an inch of the crossover pipe, and put a new bead on it. Mine came withe the hks type mount. I bought it from Driftmotion. I highly doubt that they sell just that one pipe, but you could always just order an hks aluminum mount of Ebay, or wherever.

Well, i guess you need to port match the intake manifold to the new size of the TB, but that's not too bad.