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Happened to me on my pickup, 22re, rebuilt the motor and didn't scrape the intake surface of the head good enough and i had a nice leak. burned coolant for about 10 minutes figuring it had to clear out before i was like "ok....something is wrong"

Isnt there a passage in the intake manifold for coolant for the throttle body, if that gasket surface wasn't cleaned thoroughly it could be leaking in that way.

I browsed threw the EWD and i couldnt find this circuit. is it hidden somewhere?

What is everyone using for dwell settings for this? Going stinger, this should be fine with stinger right?

the cylinder walls will wear down no matter what, the thing is that you want the rings to be pressed against them with enough force to even out the surface creating a good seal. If the force of the ring on the wall isnt that great the cylinder wall will smooth out without really wearing much of...

Do you realize how much braided line cost? you could buy a set of injectors with how much the line and fittings would cost, maybe even a master power turbo depending on what brand and how fancy you get.

Ahh i knew there was some type of vsv. So can you use that same bvsv on the thermostat housing or would a temperature controlled source work better? What about when in boost? is it valved internally or does it have something to shut it off? It uses ported vacuum from the throttle body...

There not bad at all. I only notice it at idle in drive when the engine is under that slight load. Off idle and in park or neutral isnt even that noticeable. Im 89 with te square mounts and i welded them with pieces of 1/4 inch steel.

little hijack, the stock charcoal canister IIRC is controlled with the stock TCCS and vsv vales, for someone going standalone how would they keep this and remain proper function?

is the idle up valve on the power steering pump hooked up/functioning?

Check the simple things first make sure you still have brake fluid in the master. when doing a flush like that its easy to loose track.

Could be low also. just because you had the fluid changed doesn't mean they filled it properly. I had a leak on my tranny and when it was low it wouldn't shift right. Check on level surface with the engine running.

If you Dont change injectors or fuel pump turn the boost up untill you hit fuel cut. It will cut before you have a chance to do any damage unless you slap on a piggy back and pull tons of fuel. These mods are more then they seem, yes you need bigger injectors and bigger fuel pump to support...

How do you know how much dwell to set it for?

Wrong section. Horrible question. And impossible to answer. 96 to 06 is a big difference. You probrably won't get the answer your looking for on this forum as these types of threads just end up getting locked. Depends on driver, traction, condition of both vehicles, and who cares get...

Think you have me confused with the OP I'm only shooting for ~500 and I ment same number of drivers for comparison sake. I'm going stinger and I think as per IJ I should just go for the 6860. I wasn't putting motec down at all and if you need that percise injector controll it's worth the coin...

Im pretty sure you can load a stinger 4 map into an 6860 by changing the extension. The map will just be smaller then the 6860 map. I know it will load becase i've done it but I havnt ran a car on a different map yet.

Is this only for an aem? Or would this help out a stinger, or mega squirt or other standalone car aswell?

Not to hijack, has anyone even thought of measuring dipstick length to see how long from the top of the dipstick tube to the bottom of the rotating assembly so you will have an accurate dipstick and know how much you can put in before it has adverse effects? One could even change the dipstick...

I see, Im going for the 700cc densos from driftmotion, if that makes a difference. Not trying to be stubborn just making sure i buy will give me desired results. For example the Motec m400 has same drivers as the stinger 4, triple the cost, and so many things i will not use but am paying...