Nah I was looking at the first block pic #6 just looked wet!
If you had a stuck open valve it's really noticable both in performance and when you pull the head.
You'll need a spring compressor to get it back together and it might be an idea to have the machine shop assemble it and set the...
Well either way the head had to come off as #6 looks like it has excessive blowby going on the amount of Oil in there!
99% certain the KS can't shut the motor all it will do is pull timing.
Grab a set of feeler gauges and measure the valves if you have a loose one you'll spot it in seconds...
Figit: I only said 22 as you're using the antiseize and this acts a lubricant so you use less torque to no risk pulling the old threads!
Keep an eye on em over the next week or so they may need to be snugged back down!
Well done on getting it running!
I doubt you'd lose any HP due to volume of flow being low but it would make it much nicer to drive!
(all it takes is one badly timed squirt to get the wrong sort of attention)
"Crush" is the snap fit when you put the bearing into the rod or cap, the bearing is slightly larger in diameter then the rod hole and as you tighten the cap the bearing "crushes" into place.
The ends of the bearing are spread out a bit and when you hammer a bearing they pull in like yours...
There "should" be a little tab that sticks out that looks like you'd press it to release but you lift it.
Sounds like it's been snapped off, there should be another connector higher up a square one from memory up near the starter?
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