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Y: I run a knocklink in my car it's just an LED display and have to agree these motors can be a little noisy ;)

Raises the flow limit for the motor, this is why the JZA motors have a higher HP limit than the M series as they're valves are +1.5mm larger stock with room for bigger if needed whereas an M head runs into serious valve shrouding after +1mm and anything larger just won't fit as there's not...

Ronin: Either Rich/Summit, Aaron/Driftmotion, Jon/MDC, or Kyle/HPF should be able to hook you up with the correct FW. (Fidanza has some fittment issues)

Mine are hard face welded (same stuff they build up the digging teeth on excavators) and after 25,000 KM's look perfect. In the past I had welded cams that were just the same soft material as the parent metal and suffered many failures with everything from pitting to lobes falling off.

Rich: They returned me after probing ;)!

Ohhh my......

DBNO: I do it for any and every motor I build ;) (I'm old enough to remember when MonoTorque head gaskets were a new thing on the market and I never bought into the hype)

While I admire the DIY attitude and the willingness to get in and get your hands dirty if you have NFI please ask BEFORE you guys try to do things like this..... Worst case scenario would have been eleventy seven PSI boost and flat rear tires from driving over the crank and rods.....

Figured as much Jeff ;) Also thought an explanation of what I mean might help some of the guys running around saying that they didn't need to retorque as it hasn't moved from where they set it. If they did it right I'd be just about certain it'll move, you take note of where the wrench is...

To pull enough tension off the Nut to where it cracks loose but no more then you can retorque accurately. If you don't do this the stiction (static friction) will prevent you getting anything even near an accurate reading on the tq Wrench...

Did you backcrack them first or just pull at the same Tq?

Well DUH ;)

Ok the little Reservoir should have a hose that goes to the bottom on one side this plugs into the Bleeder the other goes to the Pump. Top off the Master Cylinder then pump up the Vacc pump and crack the bleeder but just before the pump runs out of vacc shut the bleeder, repeat a few times...

TLO: SSteel here as well and they could be used as bridge supports :)

Ronin: Might be an idea to order it through one of the many reputable vendors here in SM?

I use castrol LMM moly grease during assembly and 0 squeaks.

Rich: Agreed! Just like to correct any misinformation based on real life experience when I can ;)

A Ghost Image on another HDD of course :icon_razz

NA would probably benefit the most from a lightweight FW as they don't make the low end Tq of a CT26 GTE ;) (just trying to help you out of the creek)

As long as the construction is the same ie: Radial/Radial and NOT Radial/Crossply it shouldn't be a huge issue handling wise and I think all of Lam's home depot stuff would fall off under G's high enough for it to be noticable so will act as a limiter of sorts ;)