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We're only talking millivolts here Mario not enough to zap you but enough to cause an electolytic reaction in the motor and make it eat itself starting with the softer metals. I've seen a brand new aluminium rad that leaked in 2 weeks due to this.

The T Stat isn't really directional Suze. (well not to the point it would pop hoses off) "E" goes to engine "C" goes to cooler it's a bit hard to get it wrong ;)

And remember kids when doing silly things with your 7M +1qt of Oil is your friend ;)

The stray current test should really be done anyway with the amount of body/electrical work that's been done on Suze's car ;)

His dad needs to grow some balls and beat him down and NOT put up with his idiotic shit at home.

I ended up buying one to use once ;)

It's nothing to do with temp Suze and it has to be an analogue Digi won't work for this test.

Jag: You didn't ask ;)

Grab an analogue multimeter (one with a needle NOT a digi) ground one probe set to millivolts and hang the other probe in the coolant making sure it's not touching the rad.

You really need to bring enough drugs for everyone ;)

Not to mention access to some really good drugs ;) "A sensor that stops him doing donuts".....

LMAO ;)

Flub:In the 341 the Line pressure and TC Lock are both PWM and there's a 3rd PWM solenoid for a soft shift function.

Was it hot while this happened?

Windex is just a spray on glass cleaner Suze :) (it's quite volatile so evapororates well and doesn't leave a slime, hairspray works well but is a bitch to reuse the fittings if you need to later as the rubber sticks)

Doesn't always work that way..... I have logs of wheelspin at 100mph in the dry and have spun the rears at 110mph in the wet with minimal throttle/boost. TC is a life saver and well worth the $ for those times when the Tq monster tries to bite you in the arse ;)

I'm just using Pirtek's multipurpose oil hose I can get the numbers off it later if you like? Wasn't anything expensive or special just designed to work in this application and fits the pushlock barbs correctly (I spray some Windex in the hose to help it slide on and the Windex evaporates so...

That's the old development centre muffler ;) (it was too thin and a bit small volume wise and didn't survive a backfire on the dyno after hitting the rev limiter) Kotu: I bought a pair of Stainless Glasspak race mufflers and gutted them and used the perforated baffle tubes and Glass in...

I really want to see how well that works once you're over 400rwhp ;)

Suze: I run pushlocks on ALL my oil fittings and haven't had a single failure even at 100psi.