Given the choice I'd take the 7M crank every time, I have run identically prepped early and late cranks in the same motor within weeks of each other and the 7M wins hands down for drivability.
It will work but it will rattle when disengaged.
Disengagement only requires a few thou on a solid disc so you either need a pedal stop or to adjust the Clutch pedal closer to the floor so you don't overtravel the diaphram.
Yep that's heading in the right direction but where it falls down in our cars is that panel where it bolts to the firewall is a sheet of .9mm steel so not exactly structural.
Bill: To keep it really short and simple all the Towers do in our cars is handle the Spring loads with none of the Deflection/steering loads of a Mac Strut front end so all the pillow balls and strut bars in the world are going to make a minimal difference let alone bars that have 0...
Justin: I'm the last person to knock someone for a "DIY" attitude to car parts as I make so much of my own gear but in this case they're doing NOTHING, well made strut bars are questionable at best but these don't tie anything to anything and will just flex at the single bolt hole holding them...
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