take off the 3000 pipe, and the upper intake plenum. reach down to side of the block, unclip the harness from the knocksensors. then cut the wires a few inches back from the sensor connector, and splice into new harness. voila.
it depends what sort of switch is needed on the cutout motor. Sometimes, all they require is a signal to trigger the motor, in which case you'd be fine with the switch setup as it is. Sometimes they open/close by reversing the polarity of the power wires (dc linear actuators work this way)...
according to pete, a few days ago he tested them and they passed. today, he checked the resistance across the plug terminals, and his readings were around 9ohm (which is high).
i tried for a while to find something that'd work... found lots of stuff that sort of removed vocals, but also made the whole song sound like shit. I'm in the "negative it can't happen" camp.
pete just asked me to ask if there's anyone in the houston area who would come help him figure this shit out. He'll pay ya!
he is getting tach signal (it does bounce), the CEL does come on, the ignitor is properly grounded.
and jetjock, can you clarify what you mean by 'check IGt at the...
because our front suspensions have upper and lower A-arms. most (well, maybe not most, but a fair amount) of the force transferred from the suspension goes through the upper arm.
Okay, so I've been on the phone several times with Pete (Weezl) today, his car is having some serious problems. Here's the low down:
The car won't fire. When hooking a timing light up to any cylinder's wires, no signal is being sent. However, when you directly apply voltage to the ignitor...
Pigs are assholes. I have nmore to say, but i shoudl keep shut up since i'm drinked.
And in one o fthose druinked ideas, you should put 'stacks on the wagon. How redneck awesome would that be?
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