Search results

I searched youtube for videos of 'crankshaft balancing', and every single video I found except one, was of inline cranks with bobweights, so... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LvgVI2PTKzI http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2UNLrXUL49w&feature=related Supra crankshaft:- 6M...

It doesn't sound to me like the pulley is the bulk of your problem. I would assume that the total material lost on your pulley would be less than 3-4 ounces, 6inches from the centerline of the crankshaft. At 2500rpm, I think this would be a small vibration, not enough to make your shifter act...

Yup. Well, to be more specific- It's going to retard the timing way back, and you'll have poor combustion, which can cause a rich condition. PS- Have you checked your coldstart injector? they sometimes stick open, and this will not throw a code.

This thread is quite recent, and has pics of the bushings in it.(post #82) http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?156551-poly-subframe-bushings-kit

Ah-ok, that makes perfect sense now about the bobweights representing the new piston/rod combos. I assume that any rod/ piston combo I end up with, is going to weigh less than the oem? I assume that forged pistons will be clearly heavier than stock, but will the rods weigh less? I have...

On a different subject, IJ, is it sensible to have my crank rebalanced? Obviously, the factory did some balancing, but was it adequate for higher powerlevels? Also, how does using forged rods/ pistons affect the need for balancing? My understanding is that dynamic crank balancing is performed...

Thanks, IJ. Im vassilating between Ross and Arias.

I noticed that nobody has mentioned Arias- Are they not considered to be as good as others mentioned? Also- IJ, you mention the Ross are the heavier choice of pistons. Is there a thread that mentions piston weights of all the manufacturers? Or if you happen to know, what are the weight...

Congrats on the successful rebuild. Post a video of the running motor.

Interesting paint job. It would look better to me if either the mouldings were painted silver, or(preferably) the dark color came all the way down to the mouldings. Regardless, I do like two-tone. Two questions- Did you have the machine shop polish the head/ block mating surfaces down to the...

The only problem with using arp's is if you install them first(before the head), you can't slide the head down on them while the block is in the car. The obvious fix for that is, remove them, then install the head. Otherwise, there's absolutely no difference.

I did 12-15 psi on a stock hg with ARP's for 2 yrs, no problems. But what was so hard about using arp's?? You put the head on, put the washers down, then drop the arp's in. Not a whole lot different than oem bolts.

PS- Using a composite head gasket is not an inevitable failure/ fix issue. As long as the head and block surfaces are undamaged, a composite gasket will last for a LONG time. Headbolt torque has to be correct, though.

That would make it too hard??? How? So...he re-used the unreuseable oem headbolts? Torque with oem bolts should be ~72ft-lbs.

What the hell just happened in this thread? There's all kinds of wrong going on here. First off- What got done by your friend- a head replacement? Doesn't sound like the coolant system was completely burped, but who knows. It could have been a bad t-stat, a bad/ warped head, an improper torque...

sheet metal, you mean the plastic splash panels?

No need to track down the exact product, I'd say. When i had my windshield replaced 2 yrs ago, I took it into a place, described the stuff i was looking for(based on the above-mentioned thread), and the guy said- no problem, we keep that stuff in stock. PS- I brought my laptop in, and showed...

I bought a turbo oil pump from advanced online a year ago. It's the oem part Aisin. They just grind the word 'Toyota' off the base of the shaft. Paid $155, vs. $275+.