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i think i got it, the bolts for the no. 2 timing cover were in the way. i removed the washer and shaved off some material from the head of the bolt. they can move now but there is still some resistance. its been a while since i messed with cam gears, so this may be normal.

do you know anything about the fitment of titan cam gears? i just torqued down the cam bolt and now the camshaft wont spin easily. or at all. do i have to modify the no.2 timing cover? thanks for everything -pete

how many of those dowels do you need to install when you put the cam gears on the cam shafts? there are 3 holes on the camshaft but i can only fit 2 dowels when i align the cam gear on -pete

any idea?

ok cool. thanks guys i was freaking out

im starting around 9am to finish bolting all the little things up and putting the timing belt on.... assuming i didnt fuck up my ati damper (i just dropped it on the driveway). just a bunch of odds and ends. the only big component i have to hook up is the turbo which i should do tomorrow...

i think so.... i didnt really open it up. there are some light scratches on the bore of that bad piston. a nice hone job could fix it up if you werent going with oversized pistons. i didnt check the crank but it will most likely need a good polish. im not really planning on doing anything...

i just had a big big blooper. i was carrying the damper to the car with the crank pulley bolt so i could bring them both to my machinist tomorrow morning, and then the styrofoam packing slid right out of the box with the damper. the damper hit the ground with the styrofoam and started to roll...

lets hope all goes well. it should start right up without problems. after this is all done, i have an extra block available (with a melted piston) if you want it for your built. i have a head too, but its been cut too much.... you might be able to use if for parts. i just need it out of my...

thanks

i dont have the bolt in front of me... but i assume you either mean the material between the threads and the head of the bolt? or by the flange, you mean the round plate which sits flush on the pulley itself? will it be obvious when i get home and test fit the bolt on the pulley? sorry for the...

i would be very interested in one..... if perhaps a few extra were made. cough cough... -pete

if air is getting by the seal.... then yes. any type of air leaks in the intake piping can lead to symptoms like that. as far as the flutter goes.... some bov flutter. there is usually an adjustment screw on the bov that could help reduce that. but manufacturers usually recommend an...

what is your idle like? i assume you still have the afm. check in the tsrm to see if its working properly and that its plugged in. if you have access to one, check your vacuum with a vacuum gauge and determine if you have any boost leaks. do all this in addition to what the others recommend...

im also worried that i didnt thoroughly clean the oil residue off the surface of the cylinder head enough before i torqued it down. on the deck of the block i wiped off all the residue. at most there might be a little oil on the cylinder head near the combustion chamber. do you think there...

so i have to bring it to my machine shop? what has to be machined? the length, or material under the head of the bolt? thanks -pete

For those running the ATI super damper, im aware that you have to machine the stock crank pulley bolt to make it work. I got a new one from toyota just incase i mess it up. but what i need to know is: what do i use to remove material (rotory tool, sanding, etc)? what material needs to be...

so your not stopping by on friday.... the motor is going in with, or without you. hahaha -pete

when i got a new lock cylinder, it suddenly started working. are they a part of the cylinder itself? -pete

through the squirter itself? the orifice is big enough to get a wire through? by the way.... those ceramic coated manifold manifolds and heat shields i got from you look great on the motor. thanks a lot