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I'll BARE something in your general direction if you're not careful!!!

There's no good answer to this question. It all depends on a crapload of other factors - what kind of oil you run, how hard you push your car, how often and for what duration you push it, how well you treat it afterwards, how often you change the oil, what kind of shape the rest of your engine...

Well, until you crash it and they refuse to give you any money for your turbo parts, anyhow.

Double posting is a no-no.

The SAFC has more adjustment points, so it gives you a finer control. The MAFT-PRO is a totally different animal, it's much more than a small advance from the regular MAFT.

We really need to dig up this video and post it ourselves.

Not what I expected to see when the tree went green, that's for sure. http://videos.streetfire.net/Player.aspx?fileid=A94C3345-D6BB-4D2A-A2E0-17C0C21A1762&p=0

Nah... no meat left on the bones, and I just can't get used to the 10w30 aftertaste if you chew the bones.

All they really care about is customizations that they may have to pay for if you total the car, IIRC.

MAFT is a great little box - essentially allows you to replace the Lexus AFM / 550cc injector setup that was pioneered back in the early 90s. Costs less and has more functionality to boot. It works as a simple AFR computer - meaning that if you get a good tuner, you won't need an SAFC or...

Yup, same thing had happened to mine when I purchased it. A family had made their home under the coilpack cover and eaten into the leads. Their oil soaked skeletons and a bunch of grain husks were still in there, too.

Agreed. Remember that you can't do that on all engines, though... if in doubt, use #1. :)

Very important. I would seriously suggest getting a downpipe with the integral elbow, like one from BIC.

Yup, cap away. You could go a lot further, actually - cap it at the intake manifold and remove the hardline entirely, then cap it at the accordian hose. Same effect.

Not familiar with timing lights? They are a strobe that you connect to the number 1 plug wire, then aim at the front main pulley. Fire up the car, jumper the diag block, and adjust the CPS until you get 10-12 degrees on the main pulley at every flash of the strobe... Sounds complex, but it's...

You bet, it's absolutely not required. All that line does is open at idle speeds to give the engine a little extra air when turning lock to lock in parking lots and such... the little extra air increases the idle RPM by just a bit to make it less likely to stall.