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I don't think it does adaptive timing curves... but I'm sure it changes the fuel maps. Same theory applies, however, if it's running less power after learning for a while, I expect it's happening for a reason.

Not IMO. :)

Of course. It's been done several times. Bit of a trade off - you can't get your raw power numbers up as high as the low compression folks, but you get more power at lower boost levels.

Agreed.

Care to expand on that description? What boost are you hitting at what RPM, exactly? Did this turbo come with a stock exhaust wheel, or is it clipped?

And remember that it will more than likely stall a couple times when changing gears until it figures everything out again. :)

And Flatlander is the place that tried to screw Adjuster, one of our most helpful members. You couldn't make me shop there for love or money. If I recall, Defiant7M is/was making something similar.

Way to much misinformation in this thread. 3p141592654 is correct. Stock Toyota head bolts are reusable, even at 72 foot pounds. Stock bolts are not TTY. That said, ARP fasteners are never a bad idea, and should be available for under $100 if you can find a local parts place that carries...

Now that's an interesting question for which I have no answer. :( When I bought it, the fellow selling it figured it was a 58 trim. I don't think such a wheel actually exists. Comparing it to pics I've seen of the 57 trim, 60-1, and 62-1, it looks like a 62-1, from the outside, at least. I...

Nothing wrong with the GE blocks. They don't have an oil supply / return for the turbo, only have one knock sensor, and run higher compression pistons, that's it. All of these either don't really matter, or are relatively easy to fix.

You don't have to disconnect the battery, you can just pull the EFI fuse for a minute or two. I'd suggest resetting the ECU after making changes to your setup, lets the ECU relearn with the new parameters which is going to be a LOT faster than overwriting the existing settings.

Upgrade to a proper downpipe with an integrated elbow, replace your intake with a decent flowing one, scratch your exhaust all the way from the downpipe to the rear end and replace it with a full 3" model, and pickup a manual boost controller from Dr.Jonez, set it to 11psi and go. You won't...

Damn you boost! You are 2 minutes ahead of me on every thread! :D

Easy question to answer. Check the chassis code... if it's MA70 / MA71, then it was widebody from the factory. If it's GA70, it was narrowbody and has been modded.

That's one of the things that I like about EVE - it's not hard to walk away. Just set a really long skill training and take a break! I did that early this month when I went to Hawaii for 2 weeks.

Stock on the left, upgraded on the right...

All the drivers I've had lift it by the wheels and dolly the back end.

Agreed. Which is why I quoted Doc's power numbers instead of PSI readings. :)

The clearance is too much. One of the common mods is to extend the oil pickup . I don't recall by exactly how much... and my spare block is disassembled. :(

It's easy and simple to wire in. And $150 is about $100 too much. :)