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But the pre-89 needles are fugly :D

Autoparts stores push Bosch big time (contracts), don't fall for it... Get the NGK's or Denso's... Platinums are fine (they came stock), coppers are good too but need to be changed more frequently, iridiums are overpriced and can act as a glowplug under certain conditions. You shouldn't...

Not sure why it matters as size of the swaybar doesn't really tell you much... But here's the info that was gathered a while back by our SM Expert on Suspension and Vehicle Dynamics: Wiisass http://www.theoryinpracticeengineering.com/tech/SupraARBtest.pdf

-consumes epic amounts of oil -HORRIBLE gas milage -Mazda USA specifies the wrong oil so it can meet EPA regulations (spec is different everywhere else in the world) Overall it's NOT worth is as once the warranty runs out you have to handle it all. Rotaries are very simple and easy to work...

Yep, has to be in L or 2 for it to engine brake (had to hunt through the TSRM for this...)

should be both the crank and block that is stamped...

I've had a cop try to take off with my knife before...

I've been thinking of ways to get the fan set back a bit, wouldn't be too hard to mount it on the clutch differently if you machined some stuff... I'd have to look though...

paging jetjock LOL

Early JDM GTE...

As I've never dragraced on a track, I probably would have bogged or spun real bad and been lucky to break out of the 15's LOL Just repaired my EGR cooler gasket (felpro sucks BTW, the gasket was GONE), and I'm losing coolant :( Damn I need a job....

200+ HP engine moving fan or a small motor? I have nothing against electric fans, but i have everything against CHEAP, low quality, aftermarket fans that have the MTBF worse than a Yugo. They're not an upgrade in any way, shape, or form and the only advantage is if the car isn't moving...

Drive with overdrive off still coasts IIRC... Paging IJ

don't put it in Drive, but put it in Low or 2 as Drive has Coast...

Wish I could have... couldn't afford it, and if I blow it up on the track I'd be FUCKED

HID's in DOT housings = OMGWTFBBQ glare monsters from hell HID's in E-Code housings = less glare than a halogen DOT light Cheap chinese HID's WILL drive you nuts as their quality just isn't there...

Same reason electric superchargers don't work...

You're burnishing the threads, that's why if they're used they're already broken in and will torque fine. I'm sure this accounts for MOST of the cases of the studs loosening up and needing a retorque. I wasn't able to do quite finger tight in my block (that and my hands where tired as hell...

Painted mild steel, so it will eventually rust (worse if you scrape). For the price, it's great as it looks stock, flow a bit better than stock IIRC, and looks stock. Did I mention it looks stock?