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My friend has the same opinion... shitty game, but cool engine...

Stitch weld is fine, seem welding is bad. Cross quoted form another thread:

MKIV mounts work fine IIRC... Dunno why people wouldn't want to use em since they've certainly shown their strength and IIRC are a captive design so if they fail you don't have an engine that wants to play rollover...

If I even thought about it my PC would grow legs and walk out...or just burst into flames.

Not necessarily, and even so, it's a bulb and replaceable. Wiring degrades, upgrades with relays get around that without hacking the entire harness out and replacing, and in the end will give you better power to the bulbs than a factory setup. I'd rather have to replace the bulbs twice as...

YES!!! T-handle is required! Not using one is like using a socekt without a ratchet, it's just won't work right (and why I didn't mention it...)

Not to mention the floor is polished and you can see the reflection from the normal front end. The wall was edited because there is some sign on the wall (forgot what it says, but you can see the reflection in the hood).

I see how the housing mounts to the head, and then the t-stat cover mounts to the housing, but how does the the actual fitting attach? I see the o-ring, maybe there are threads I'm not seeing? I love seeing how stuff like this works...

OEM color. You may say you won't do it half assed, but when you have to pay for it (I've seen $10K paintjobs and I could still tell it wasn't factory), I think you'll change your mind... 3E5 is the shit anyway, but I'm partial. The green is alright, but too sedate. Black is black...

Can't be GTA wheels (differnt bolt pattern), but the GTA wheels do have the Japanese markings on them so they're probably made in the same factory, basicly being the same wheels...

Like I said in flashchat, with a tight 90 welded to the housing and getting the pipe tucked down it might look fine, but pointing it down still looks better... Use a spacer like everyone else...

or if they even fit in the rail or head...

Doesn't have if they're hollow, but it might be obvious from the weights... The rear bar on our cars is a joke... http://www.theoryinpracticeengineering.com/tech/SupraARBtest.pdf

That's the job the the thermostat, if you're cooling too well it's not functioning properly. Some of us use A/C and removing it isn't a logical fix for fans that don't flow enough. Stock e-fan setups fail OPEN, meaning if the sensors fail, the fans default to ON. Aftermarket doesn't do...

I broke a thread chaser doing mine, real tap did much better (but you have to be careful not to crossthread it). Thread chaser tries to repair the thread without removing metal, usually there is a ton of scale and rust in the holes so it won't work...

Put a Bomex front end on it and it would match a bit better... Now from a performance standpoint, no. MKIV has better aerodynamics, and better air intake (which is why I'd say the SC300 front on a MKIV is stupid, no airflow). The MKIII has a raised cowl hood, the MKIV doesn't (in that...

Looks too much like an RSX...

Replace the whole thing... or attempt to just tighten the screw in the end of the stalk. I've taken apart the one in mine, and it's a bitch, I remember using some tools to keep things in place (feels like you need about ten hands)

Yeah, the coast is in the transmission using a one way clutch, both OD and 3rd have it (you still see SOME engine braking, but I think it's due more to the nature of a slushbox tranny :D ) Specificly talks about engine braking in L and 2 in the troubleshooting section as well.

You'll get better performance out of upgraded wiring, and the Hella kits are plug and play... Stern has a lot on why upgraded wiring makes such a huge difference, it's worth the read...