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Helps if you post what style you are using... I still have one, I use LumiBlue...

Remember where I said this? When the beta was over, I had to reset the gallery, and it lost the photos. Just edit your page and resend your pics! :)

To a point, Natan is correct. Over 100rwhp and they start to have issues - hammer it in a low gear with sticky tires on and you can peel the teeth off the gears like a cob of corn. Will Neely's 733rwhp monster ran into this problem. There are lots of clutch choices for this, ACT, RPS, Tilton...

What to do? That's easy. Buy a plane ticket, fly there, get a taxi to his house... I'll leave the rest to your imagination. :D

Good, because if another guy around here gets a nice clean BLACK supra before me, I think I'm going to blow a gasket. :(

Do the usual bit - unplug one spark plug wire, start it up, check for tapping. Repeat with each wire. If the tapping goes away, the cylinder that is disconnected is suffering from rod knock.

Ya, except for the fact that he has (I think) 2 x 720cc injectors running to a separate fuel pump and fuel cell, holding C16 where the spare tire used to be. :D

Henceforth, I shall always refer to you as SIMON. Just like I always have. :icon_razz

LOL - that will wake people up. We can't do that here... airhorns on passenger cars = ticket from the local police. :(

Damn - yours looks like a much more even drop, mine looks lower in the rear than it is in the front. Is it just the angle, or did yours drop nice and even?

JJ, you are the whole reason I'm going to try it this way - before I read some of your posts on this subject, I was under the impression that the ECU monitored the heater circuit! :) I'm not concerned about falling out of closed loop, as I'll be feeding the signal from a wideband whenever the...

Dammit - is that black, or dark blue?

More than a day's work. You need to tear the head off, take it apart, and send it into a machine shop to be surfaced flat. That's a day. While waiting for the machine shop, clean the block deck and examine it with a machinist's straightedge to make sure it's flat, and order a new head gasket...

The reason I'm researching this is because I'm replacing the stock O2 with a wideband, and the output from the wideband to the ECU is only a single wire. So, the question then is, do we just leave the heater wires disconnected, or do we need to wire in a resistor, or do we need to do something...

These downpipes ROCK. No question. :D

Troubleshooting that front VSV is EASY. Just wait until the engine has cooled after running for a bit - 30-60min should do the trick - pop the hood and pull the vacuum line off the FPR, right beside the oil cap. Then try to start the car. If it starts easy, the VSV is toast. Put the vacuum...

Damn! Beated by IJ again! :D

You're right, it's the face of the body to reduce the clearance, and the plate that bolts on if it shows signs of wear.

Sometimes they are plumbed into the intake manifold instead of the 3000 pipe. :)

The fuel pressure VSV is only used on warm startup. On warm startup, it switches the FPR to use atmospheric pressure instead of manifold pressure to combat heat soak. Removing it might make your engine harder to start when warm, that's about it.