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i melted #3 with stock ecu and maftpro. turned out that the #3 injector (RC 550) was only flowing 320cc. that was on my jasper motor. i dont ever recommend jasper. when i took it apart, they over machined the block and head way past toyota specs -pete

good to hear. i would have run them if i could have found a block that wasnt already bored out past the .020" piston size. my cp's cost twice the price that you payed for my probes. but so far so good.... except that it sounds like a mack truck when i first start it up in the winter.

i just put redline in my tranny and diff and it was similar to the color of motor oil -pete

i would get your injectors flow tested. does the map ecu have a different timing map -pete

daaaaaamn. glad i went with CPs

just go with BIC poly mounts. they are reasonably priced and great quality -pete

wow.... looks like someone poured some paint into your tranny. lol

thanks for the praise. im tired of spending a ton of money on oil when i used to change it so frequently. that why i went with the good oil and filtration system. this is why i dont mind spending $12 per quart. especially if i only change the oil about once a year. whats the turnaround...

i am using Redline, and filter the oil with a Napa gold filter and a trasko filter. change the filters every 4000 miles and then the oil every 8000-10000 miles. works great for me so far -pete

at first it was intermittent, but after about a day or two after the first incident, the problem became permanent.

lol.... thats true. but i wouldnt recommend messing with the scaling unless you know what your doing.

i had the same problem a few years ago when i had an afm. couldnt figure it out for the life of me. turned out it was the afm itself. try swapping another afm in there if you can get your hands on one, or test the wiring to the ecu hope that helps -pete

get a few quotes first. but to be honest, new toyota parts might be more expensive from the dealer than the parts you bought. so you might end up with some extra cash in your pocket. in my experience, ive gotten more money from the insurance company than the actual cost to repair the damages...

thanks for the code...

cant scaling back the hz correction be hazardous if you dont know what your doing? -pete

torque stick? are you talking about a torque wrench?

lol... us americans like to be different than the rest of the world. it doesnt really matter if its in metric or standard, as long as if your units are consistent. and rounding the gravity to 32.2 ft/s^2 is accurate enough for this calculation -pete

i have a shaftmasters 1-piece aluminum and have had no problems whatsoever up to 145mph. no vibrations.. in fact less vibrations compared to stock since the carrier bearing had so much play i havent hit the drag strip since i got it or sustained speeds in excess of 120mph for more that 2...

as figgie stated... you need to use pounds mass (lbm), not pounds force (lbf)

i second that statement.... ive had bad experiences in the past. you will never be sure how solid your motor is until you have it rebuilt and you buy the parts that go in it. -pete