Maybe. My little compressor isn't accurate at anything below 30psi. My big one may though. I haven't checked it down that low before.
Also, the gauge in question is an AutoMeter ProComp.
Wording this a little better will surely get more responses. ;)
Is there a 'Water fall' or 'Toilet Flushing' sound heard when the car is started for the first time?
Is the coolant overflow resevoir cap popping off?
Does the oil look like your favorite brand of chocolate milk?
Does...
A lot of Fluke Meters measure frequency. Fluke 87 for sure (that's what I have) and I think the Fluke 79. Other brands of DVM's measure frequency too; but, Fluke is the best. IMO anyway... ;)
I agree with the above post too. If no code, probably not the problem.
Both were installed when I got the car so I didn't install them; but, it looks like the EBC T's into the Boost Pressure Sensor and the Gauge T's into the line coming off the back of the intake manifold.
IJ: Given the above setup, would I then go off the EBC for tuning or the gauge? I don't...
I am running the ProfecB SpecII EBC and am setting up the 'Lo' mode.
The problem is that there is about a 3psi difference between my boost gauge and what the EBC reads. Ex: Boost Gauge = 15psi while the EBC = 13psi.
Any idea which one would be more accurate and/or why there is a discrepancy?
Thanks guys!
Yeah, the PRE guys weren't very friendly at first; but, after I started talking shop with them, they warmed up a bit.
Once they verified my AFR's were good, one of their guys new my model of EBC and tweaked on it a bit to get a more stable output.
Yeah, I wasn't shooting for a number. I just wanted to see where she was at now then go see where she is when I install the following:
SP61
550's
Walbro
Maft-Pro
Yes, I was bummed that they're printer wasn't working. Hopefully they'll get the rest of that info to me soon.
Hey IJ -...
Wrong.
ARP's should be torque'd to their specs and 72lbs isn't it. The torque spec for ARP's vary with what you use for thread lube and what type of ARP's you use. Studs or Bolts.
I think all this was covered in a thread you started. ;)
And having your block and head ground to a...
Here are my Dyno Numbers.
They're printer was broken so I don't have all the details; but, this is what I got.
294 HP
320 TQ
13 psi
They said we could push it a little and break 300; but, I didn't want to do that. I was happy with a base line that had stable AFR's. :)
Whoa! There were a lot of responses while I was out of town. Sweet!
To all those that have one piece DL's. Is there more vibration than with the stock one and is there a concern of twisting?
I have a spare tranny mount and will try that.
As far as the rear end, when I let out my...
Clutch/Fly wheel had no play when prying with a pry bar. I rotated the engine and ensured all pressure plate bolts were tight.
Yeah, I'm pretty sure both drivelines have a problem. One has a bad carrier bearing for sure, and the other has mis-aligned u-joints.
I agree. One should not...
I inspected the mount closer and it's not busted all the way through. Not YET anyway. The crack is about 1/4 to a 1/3 through. The vibration isn't extreme, it's just that the car isn't as smooth as it was prior.
That is definitely good advice. I think I'm going to try it; but, certainly...
It's not rattling the teeth out of my head or anything like that. It's just not as smooth as it was. It's about 60% better switching back to the 91 driveline.
Yeah, I'd hate to damage anything. Maybe I'll take it out for another ride and decide.
My vibration only varies with speed...
Gaboon might be on to something. I switched back to the 91 driveline and it did get better. There is still enough vibration there to be concerning though. My guess is that the carrier bearing and/or u-joints on the 91 driveline are definitely bad.
So given all the info...what do you guys...
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