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well... you could figure it out with math... bore/stroke of the slave and master, length of the clutch pedal, pressure required to push the pedal... I truely doubt a solenoid would be strong enough to do it, and any electric actuator I doubt is going to be strong or fast enough... Maybe...

Or you can just go with spacer as once it's set it WON'T lose preload (this is a GOOD thing). Read that link I posted on beefing up the diff. I've grenaded a diff in my truck because a previous owner changed the pinion seal and the crush sleeve issue wasn't fixed... 4 teeth sheared off the...

Grim: they came stock with the torsen on the TTR (not sure on the normal 1J model), the TRD unit is a clutch type (probably made by kaaz or cusco) and I think it's a 2 way

Pics are needed... The felpro exhaust gaskets aren't classified as MLS gaskets, it's metal around packing material (the metal sandwiches it and it's got barbs to try to hold the packing from blowing out).

Did you ignore the rest of the thread and especially the video? That car doesn't have forged internals! Street tune is fine to get to the dyno. If you spend 10's of thousands of dollars on the motor why be a cheap ass and do all the tuning yourself? Keep in mind there is actually school...

That, and it's a turbo engine. No boost = no power. 1000+ HP boosted engine can drive and behave and last just as long as stock if done correctly. Most people spend thousands on parts and then cheap out and try to tune it themselves, then they wonder why the "stupid motor" blew up...

EFI will make more power than a carb anytime. The edelbrock and SLP runners are siamesed last I knew...

Try asking Aaron from driftmotion...

TRD rear diff is a clutch style ;) You meant the torsen...

CT's shaft is bigger than a normal garrett shaft!

Need to know size before I can really help...

And it still won't matter as the crush sleeve is never meant to be reused and you'll mess up your pinion depth and bearing pre-load... Hate Toyota diffs LOL

Mine are on soft front a rear (have the find my spacers for the front adjustment). Best upgrade by far, though if I had some really good coilovers I probably wouldn't need such stiff swaybars...

Why exactly are you going to make your own line?

I'm still considering doing R12...

That DSM was insane!

Nobody makes a parallel flow that's a bolt in...

Yep, only place that still has em... They're damn nice lights though...

If it's the pinion seal (which it sounds like it is), you're not going to get proper pinion bearing pre-load because of the craptastic crush sleeve. Many times the stake on the nut (another thing you'll have to replace) is all that is keeping the nut on...

oh, FYI, my bro's MKII looks to have a parallel flow condenser (lucky punk)