Rivets are easy - put the gasket on, put the head on top, and check to see if any of the rivets are on the mating surface - if they are, drill out the offending rivet. Or just drill them all out and use the front and rear pegs to align everything.
Retorque after the engine has been through a...
ARP moly lube torque is 81 foot pounds. :)
The rivet thing is a bit of an oversight from the gasket designers. They fitted the gasket on a bare stock block and head - and if we were all using un-cut blocks and heads, we likely wouldn't have any problems. However, as soon as you machine the...
That's so pointless it's not even funny. Great way to ruin the airflow under the hood - unless he's switched to a top mount intercooler as well, which I rather doubt he could do for under $2000.
Actually seems to be a bit of a problem for several manufacturers, I had to drill one out of my HKS gasket too. Likely wouldn't be a problem if I hadn't had the block and head skimmed, but as soon as you do, the sealing surface expands by enough that it's an issue.
One thing I didn't see mentioned here - cometic HG, but did you drill out the evil rivets?
I'm kindof assuming you did, as I expect the thing would have leaked long ago if you had not...
About hatch glass - I've blown this twice while working at the stereo shop way back in the day. One one car we had to build a 'muffler' - a baffle that prevented the sub wave from hitting the glass all at once.
I've built plenty of systems that made the rear glass bounce - one of our tests...
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