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spraying starting fluid has nothing to do with fuel delivery.. it goes thru the intake. not the fuel injectors. you might want to ck it

Are your injector powers plossible not wired correctly ? Like maybe they are loosing power after the car starts maybe test power

If the ecu does not read the water temp snsor it will start and die.. normally only when their is a connection issue. They are cheap you should prob replace it anyway. And I do not know if it is the same for other sensors like air temp but I bet it is. I acutually had to replace about 6 inches...

may want to ck your water temp sensor. mine did the smae thing and it was cuz my water temp sensor had broken wires at the plug.

looking for a bushing kit for the r154 with the remote mount shifter . i think its a soarer 154. shifter is real sloppy feeels like it needs new bushings?? any idea where i can get some

could be map sensor. Maybe the turbo is not buildimg enough load in 1st due to it being to short. And 2nd having longer gears allows the turbo to work harder. I'm not talking about boost levels but load on motor . Just ideas. Maybe boost leaks

this is swapped in to a bmw so all i really need is to know whaty the distance is on the fan to see if i even have room. i may be stuck with electric. but i will hit the junk yard up and see what i can find? do you think any 7m fans will work?

so i have a 1j, and my motor never cam with a fan on it. it did have the hydro fan assembly, but with keeping it clean i took it off and whent with a 2j pump. i am now running a electric fan, but to be honesti would rather ditch all the extra wire and possibly run a clutch fan, just for...

Prob not the problem. But if u unhook the o2 with the key on it will code. So u would have o reset ecu each time you do that. Just sayin.. its kinda like trying to get a car running that's out of gas.. may be something simple just overlooked. And did you have to lengthen the wire for o2 to run...

if your afrs are rich you will get a o2 code. o2 only read .5 volt you should not see more than 1 volt if i remeber right.. if you do o2 is bad,, (dbl ck this). also afr at idle if its warmed up and bouncing 14.5- 15.0 thats what is should be doing. thats proper o2 switching..do you bye chance...

Icant remeber what my voltage but I think that is normal. Just a not I switched to a mustang 3 wire way cheaper than the toyota unit. Cost 40 dollars. I think it was a 99 or. A 89 5 liter mustang but can't remeber

i have a aem tru boost. i run at 14.6 psi all day long never hits cut. but if i try for 14.8 lol i hit cut. i have set the tru boost to open wastgate up at 15psi just incase i get a spike. i am going to wire out the fuel cut soon. but for now i have to deal with it

so will the safc eleminate fuel cut? i was going to wire in a map clamp, but if it does it for me im not going to wast my time figuring out voltags

not lame at all.. good job. got to start somewhere

so a apexi sfac 2 has fallen into my lap if i want it. used but cheap.. and i was wondering the goods and bads. and the limits of this unit. i have read about how it has a hard time with bigger injectors ,like bigger than 440s, becuse of how it works the timing, so jusst looking for some more...

spedo is all good. it its all standalone off the bmw rear diff. all stock bmw set up. i am going on a longer drive tomorrow so ill double ck it

as my 1jz swap is still new to me, i have noticed that my mpg are not that good, granted i am not pa pa driving it yet, still heavy footed due to the newness of the power. my stock set up out of the bmw was a 5 speed , 5th gear was 1:1 no overdrive, and rear diff was 323s. and doing 60 mph i...

i see that it has a new clutch in it? did u ck and change the fluid?.

did u bye the motor swap off a ebay web site? and did u pay with paypal or a credit card?? if the listing or add said that those parts where included u can disput it with paypal or your credit card company. i dont know how much u paid for the set up, but the parts that are missing will run u...