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alright. dug up a 9v and couldnt get it to light up no matter what i did. not enough power, you think? these are 125v lamps, it looks like

sounds like a plan. how good a chance is it that eaton will use the same color contacts for the same leads every time? i just dug up another spst switch, but this one isnt lighted. other than that it looks to be the exact same.

now what if the lamp is designed to come on only when the switch is on? by the way, thanks for the ongoing help. i probably shouldn't be messing with this as far as my knowledge goes, but im a stubborn bastard. i learn stuff along the way.

what kinda shoes?

i like that daily bitchin thread, i think youd have a lot of contributors. looking through it all, id say the only solution is to either stay up at night or record em; although if you meant that it was just random vandals it wouldn't work as well. you could go for some crazy-ass top of the...

green grass football ftw. how's fantasy football work anyway. im lost on the whole subject, just never paid attention

holy sheit. thats all ive got to say.

and i suppose ill be testing continuity. is this ohms? thanks. im able to most of it, but electronics arent my strong suit. it sucks, cause there's something like a mental block that i cant get past yet. all this, and my uncle has two electrical patents. how the hell does he do it...

thanks for the quick reply, can you point me in the direction i should start testing (and how, for the biggest part) im pretty positive that its got one power tab (incoming for the switched item) one load tab (outgoing for switched item) and a ground for the lamp. i guess the lamp is coming...

As the title says, I'm trying to hook up a few lighted switches. They are regular lighted toggle switches, with three contacts on the bottom. I'm assuming these are power, load, and ground (for the light, I guess). Here are some pics, can you nice folks tell me how to wire it? All I need...

no silly, smiting people. everyone knows about IJ.

sounds like me sealing the driveway in shorts. and im not exactly clean shaven (more like hairy mofo.), i had to sit in the tub and scrub my legs raw to get the stuff off. the more i look at it, the more it makes me wanna tear out the back of my car. thanks for the writeup, man.

hahaha. or if you're looking to save on weight, i think the front wheel off of a bigwheels should fit quite nicely. as for the bolt pattern, its make-your-own.

jspec said the full can only weighed 8 lbs, how the hell is it going to be 30 applied?

the mazdaspeed3 is definitely built to take some track abuse, i like the balance of it. as for the issue of supra vs. civic, id take the supra (NA of course). i think that's what it should have been narrowed down to, eliminating the turbo. each car is reliable (at least from what i've...

i believe that in the first page someone said the car wouldnt work without the tach adapter, or something like that...sounds like a sweet up, track. keep us posted on how it does in the long term.

why would that be. wouldn't the solvent evaporate and lighten the load? looks good, but what happens when you need to get to the access plate for the fuel tank? just gonna cut around it with something first?

:ttiwwp: hot car, definitely hot. what were the numbers?

aaron, that is f'ing awesome. thats all i can say.

thanks for setting me straight matt. like i said, thats just info that someone passed on to me, and now i've been corrected.