Indirectly they will (through the master), and if they detect lockup (keep in mind it's a 3 channel system, both back wheels are on one throught he sensor in the tranny), they will activate the ABS there.
Also keep in mind that big brakes on a non-ABS car with good tires would actually need...
they usually use DOT3
I also noticed in the pics that your calipers are painted red, the replacement caliper isn't going to be red, and how did they get red to begin with?
If you order the parts yourself the shop will NOT warranty them. They never do as they make half their cash on ripping you off for the price of the parts.
<=== Delivery driver for a major parts distributor for shops
If you saw what they paid you'd be pissed...
No
If you lock the tires you INCREASE braking distance. Just like if you spin your tires and it's hard to get them to get traction once it's lost.
Also, keep in mind that ALL OEM braking systems are meant to lock the fronts FIRST. A rear lockup situation is DEADLY as the ass comes out...
Not like it matters as they'll wash their hands of it and say you "abused" the car...
Told you there is a reason I do all my own work...
If your dad says that, is he paying?
Few points that I'm sure some people should know...
-The proportioning valve is there to LOWER rear brake bias as a rear lockup is deadly.
-The ABS master cylinder is different from the non-ABS master more than likely to allow the system to divert pressure to the front or back when needed...
-you could get all 4 calipers for less than that...
-braided stainless brake lines are $100 for a full set
-akebono's are only like $50 an end
-resurfacing is usually like $15 a rotor around here, and if they're crossdrilled or slotted they generally can't be done (chance of breaking...
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