I'm a directly into reverse kinda guy ;)
It's called waiting for the gear pack to spin down, not hard (I usually push the clutch in, check mirrors, select reverse and then do the whole backing and looking routine...)
I see to recall that they are supposed to fail open, but if they are getting stuck in the bores it could be an issue...
A flush is in order at the least...
Had to highlight that. Keep in mind you're also stressing your entire engine when the oil starts getting too hot as many parts are cooled by oil (pistons is a perfect example). It's not just water cooled...
Guarantee you're not getting enough torque, and as threads don't hold all the stress over their entire length it's probably not getting enough preload.
You could also try torx bit head or just a normal 6 point bolt head in a smaller size head (already suggested)
Safety wire is also a good...
I spoke with Tanya eariler and she told me about this... My first instinct when I first read this thread was that she was trying to kill herself by you hitting her as it seems to be a trend lately. Sadly it appears I was right :(
I don't want to me hateful, but seriously, if you want to...
On the clutch, I run the action stage 3 (the actual stage 3 kit has the 6 puck clutch, stage 2 is the full face stock disk) and it's a bit stiffer than stock, but it's not bad at all. Supra clutch is heavy anyway compared to something like a honda LOL
Zinc additive was cut back because of emissions, all modern oils are that way...
You can buy the additives though (usually specificly used for cam break-in).
I ran 5w-30 Pennzoil Platinum and then switched to the 0w-30 German Castrol and at high temp (it gets hot as hell here in Texas and...
IIRC that one doesn't come back far enough to hit the coils...
Also, wet coils won't do jack, but if you drown the spark plug valley it's another story...
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