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Isn't B1 constant 12v? As in, even when the ignition is off?

JJ is correct, it's completely banned up here. The fines for using it are freaking HUGE - as in, big enough that it would put pretty much any independent shop out of business.

I suspect that even if the wires were out of order it will still run. Probably badly, but it should fire up. We need to know how you checked for fuel, how you checked timing, and how you checked for spark. Oh, and how you aligned the cams with the crank when you put the head on.

Actually, I guess I don't need it to be ACC, I just need something that's always on when the key is in and in the run position... hmmm... IG doesn't cut out when the starter is active. Why didn't I think of that? Thanks JJ, I think you've solved it! PS: I only kindof have my clutch safety...

I'm trying to find a spot to wire in my MAFT-Pro power lead. I want something that's on when the ignition is set to ACC, but doesn't turn off when the starter circuit is activated. I used to have it wired to my ECU power, but that's on all the time, regardless of where the key is. However, if...

It controls the temperature that the coolant is allowed into the radiator. Edit: Beat by jdub! :)

This depends on what your goals are. If you pull the AC compressor with the engine, then you'll have to disconnect it from the rest of the AC system, which means you'll discharge the entire thing, getting it refilled it a bit of a bitch. And seriously, unbolting it from the engine is easy...

I've busted more than a few. Usually due to detonation. I've burned a couple too, from running lean under boost.

I will, though. I don't give a DAMN what you know, what you think you know, and what the actual difference is between the two. The problem here isn't your knowledge or your opinions, it's the fact that strife and conflict follow you around like a puppy. There is a set of rules that people use...

I do this slightly differently, but with the same basic principles. Measure all the shims, write the sizes on them with a sharpie, and put them in a spreadsheet. Then put it all together randomly, measure all the clearances and put them into the spreadsheet. Have the spreadsheet calculate...

Try spinning each wheel independently? Check your ebrake pads? Oil in the rear diff?

I'm not sure that's true. It's true if you live in the USA, but how much do they both cost in Germany? How does the pricing there compare to the average income there? When you're discussing things internationally, you really need to start thinking that way - the prices on US soil in US...

For reliable 500+ power, I'd want to rebuild anything that I was going to put in there.

lol - comparing a 'vette to a Porsche 911 GT2 is a recipe for disappointment. The GT2 has more power per pound, more torque per pound, a better skidpad, and it will start every morning and drive you to work. Or the golf course, I suspect that more people who own one don't really work much...

What are you comparing? Brand new 2J vs used from a JDM clip? Price the parts new, and they are very similar. Furthermore, I wouldn't use much more than the longblock on either - skip the twins and the stock wiring, I'd just go single and standalone from the get go.

How does it vent? It seems to have an inlet and that's it...

The Noble kicks ass. Too bad it's virtually impossible to buy over here. I ran into one on the street a while back. My car is by no means slow, I've beaten a good number of fast cars pretty easily, but the difference between my car and that Noble was like the difference between my car and a...

2J will virtually always beat the 1J. Same weight, same bolt pattern, more torque, easier and faster to get parts, cheaper. What's not to like?

I basically never make them. When I care enough about something, I don't tend to procrastinate enough to make it to new years. When I don't care enough about it, well, why make resolutions when you don't give a shit? :)

I've seen this before, but it's still damn funny. Almost as good as the honda guy that mounted his nitrous in his valve covers.