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Some good info in this thread. I'll expand a bit on 'lasers'. These aren't really lasers, of course, they are simply a very focused beam of light. Used properly, they are not avoidable without resorting to active jamming. The catch? They are VERY rarely used properly. Their effective range...

550s with a lexus AFM is essentially a plug in upgrade. You'll run silly rich, but you're better off rich than lean! It can be done without the AFPR, however, it's wise to go the whole route - Lexus AFM, 550s, AFPR, Walbro fuel pump, J-tube delete. Then when you get your next batch of coin to...

Porting the wastegate hole on the DDP helps with boost spikes. I've done this, it's 5 minutes of work with a die grinder. While you are at it, do the same to the wastegate hole on the turbo, too. That takes a bit longer than 5 minutes, though. :D

An hour of driving. Mine will relearn in about 15 minutes of stop and go driving.

Assuming that you're still living under the paradigm of Father and Son, you have very little in the way of options. You're not old enough to live by yourself, therefore, he is allowed to set rules and you get to live by them. It's his responsibility to make sure you don't get yourself killed...

You betcha. Toyota part #45100-14511, $688.16

QFT. Too many variables to try to figure out a realistic value. Intake temps are affected by a lot of things, intercooler type, turbo, IC pipe routing, cold air intake or not, etc. Then add in the fact that every turbo / ic / ic piping setup produces different psi readings... and you end up...

No idea, I picked them up used, put them on, lowered it a bit more, raised it some... lol. So, at the moment I have no idea where it is in relation to their settings.

I have the Tein SS on my car. I'm rather pleased with them. They aren't bouncy at all. You sure do feel the road, and every imperfection in it, though.

Dude, '3 weeks ago' is the fact that you're still running a clunky old CRT monitor on that dyno. ;)

There has always been a bottle on it. He's just never turned it on!

I'd separate it.

Two things. It's summer, so everyone with a working car is out enjoying the view at the local beach / strip / coffee shop, instead of posting here. Furthermore, Vegas is coming up, and the agreement you have to sign when you become a big dawg says you have to be a secretive bastard when it...

I'm betting it was fuel cut. Symptoms sound right, anyway. It's unlikely that you did any damage to the engine.

http://www.polarcloud.com/tomato

Wow, that looks like something took the runner up prize in an axe fight. What's the bit in the center bottom? Or what was it originally?

Come to think of it, I don't think so... I've seen lots of failed rods, but I can't recall seeing a failed rod bolt. I don't suppose there is anything connected to the crank that you can get to fail gracefully under load.

Same here. My old school logitech wheel is beyond it's life support, so no Vista drivers will be released... meaning I guess I'm in the market for a new wheel. Seems kind of silly given that the one I have still works perfectly. :(

Do you really want tougher bolts than rods? Wouldn't that make your point of failure be the rod itself, rather than a bolt? I always try to set things up so that the cheapest part to replace fails first...

Gee, you don't read very well, do you? For sale rules are posted here: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=65772 And a direct quote from there: No pics, not your car, no thread. Locked. PS: Don't hassle the guys who HAVE read the rules, either.