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Make a wide band setup your next investment, then you will know your safe, push up boost a little at a time and watch your a/f. Are you going with speed density and boost control?

If your wide band takes a crap, it would not be good if your settings are not right, thats why you get it close first. And I love the AFR tracking, it does a great job of holding my a/f at 11.5 when Im romping on the gas!

OK , who wants the mani , I give up! Not!!!@ I'll see if theres any re-routing I can do but my thottle is out a bit further nd the linkage is on the other side db. I will scavenge ebay for a 4runner cable.

You have to get that clutch release fork and pressure plate bolts out to seperate if its turbo, its an ass backwards clutch setup for r154, then jack the trans up to get some wiggle room. The pressure plate stays with the trans rather than the engine, unlike any normal car.

Why cant you get the motor out without the trans, your missing something , it's not that hard! Auto or 5spd??

I want to find a kick down cable, and wondering if the early 90's 4runner, or something with an a340e has a cable long enough to reach. Anybody have info on this??

It may have had to do with turbo/ piping etc too, I changed alot of stuff at once.

3 stooges noise = premature death whine! B. Lee, thats how I ended up with 2! Now I get the woooosh at 1 or 20, just much more violent at 20:biglaugh:

LMFAO......I'M going to the strip, but you are more than welcome to show ...you need one of those chicks that can just wiggle her nose and pow, your sh#t is done.....Then send her over to do my paint!

Suprahero...I miss Walter Payton too.....lmao, anybody watch Monday Night Football, damn that was crazy! Tony......Yes, but Bomex sides and Kaminari rear are in the basement! Suspension is stock, not sure exactly where I'm going with that, because its hooking up good so far, but 4.30 gears...

I was looking for that not too long ago so I knew right where it was

If you had a leak in the hose it wouldnt matter, other than its sucking unfiltered air, Its basically a controlled leak to control idle speed. Edit...I'm thinking with our speed density, if leak was big enough and running afm, would cause lean.

Thanks Jake!! I cant wait to do the body work, but I dread the down time of not driving it for the winter. And I actually dread the body work, but it's worth it. Im anxious to see yours up and running too. I hope to have some drag strip vid next weekend:bigthumb:

I though I had an intake gasket leak when I first started it with the FFI, then realized it was the isc sucking air, DUH!....I have a little k&n on it, no problems.

From Ron's thread in misc vendor section: Update, 6-18-06 Alternator BELT Part numbers: For long runner: Dayco polycog, 5050480 For short runner: Goodyear Gatorback, 4050450 Update, 6-23-06 Making the throttle cable: Page 5 of this thread, post #43

You definitely dont want it plus, was it cold or warmed up first off, and what size injectors are you running? fuel pressure? I still think you got a vacuum leak or throttle not physically shut , dash pot hung up or something, the mainscale is only changing your idle because it was choking it...

HA HA , my camera didnt like all the noise too much, when it hit full boost and started screaming, the audio is AFU. Didnt hear any of that high frquency stuff when i was standing there.

It is fun to drive, I should say daily seasonal driver, I dont drive it winter time, I'll ride it out to snow gets here. Manny....thanks, the dyno guys were surprised to, they said auto's are big power robbers. Im gonna push this thing as fast as I can, then maybe go GM.

.81

Nope, it was 20$ extra to log a/f, and my tuner pro isnt connecting now, it says invalid port, didnt have time to reboot laptop and mess with it. It did stay in the 11's all the way, tracking works good for me. Thanks guys!