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If the starter is grinding, you probably need a new ring gear. No cold start would make it hard start , but should be fine once its running, if it runs crappy, and you have a coolant temp code, you need to look into the coolant temp sensor(green sensor below t-stat area)

It sucks to not have it either way, you get the windows fogged when you need to get somewhere and youre f@cked! Just fix it.

That makes me wanna puke!

Werd....we're here to help....Git r done!!

Looks like you change your sig hero, I guess dibs on a 94tt aint bad though!

That is not true, Jdub is right, the heater valve blocks off flow when it is shut. so this would be no different. Check out the link he posted. It is nice to have heater core for extra cooling if it gets hot in emergency.

clean the corrosion off around where the seal goes in, it will go.

Yup, they improved the seal design. Just be carefull tapping it in, if you dont have a proper seal driver, tap it around evenly a little at a time.

:bsflag:

If you are at 10, you can turn the adj screw out on the afm, that will lean it down, and maybe prevent f/c, it just doesnt have as big of a bypass as the lex.Just take it a little at a time and watch the a/f.

It sounds like they gave you the pinion seal, I can check that # tomorrow.

And scratch what i just said about the afm if you cant up the fuel pressure, I think you should forget the dyno until you do the upgrades or change w/g spring to lower boost.

Ohhhh, no boost control. I see. Its going to be hard to get a dyno run without one or change spring in w/g. I would forget the AFM and get maft pro with speed density and boost control. You can tweak the stock AFM bypass screw to avoid fuel cut , but with stock inj?, I would be careful, a little...

For some reason, when I hit fuel cut , it pisses me off, I just hate it. Definately dont want to eliminate it with that setup, get a wideband before you run it up any more, for now just back the boost down a bit.

The wideband is a smart choice, then you can squeeze as much out of that lex as you can without melting stuff. Then get a maft pro and eliminate the AFM alltogether, plus you wont need safc, and you can use it for boost control if you buy the solenoid.

Fuel cut sucks ass, turn the boost down just enough to avoid f/c.

The waterfall sound is typically air trapped in the heater core due to low coolant or combustion leak(BHG) into coolant system. Make sure your coolant system is topped off, start car with rad cap off, put your heater on full hot and rev the engine good a few times after warmed up and t-stat is...

Damn....even the blue flamer club has banned me! DaSoup....I work for Toyota.....so, ya....Toyota family. Before I woulda never bought a Jap car, now nothing but the Toyotas, I sold my 76 Camaro in 99 and bought my first(blue) Supra....wasn't gay blue tho.

LMFAO.....I bought it for my 16 y/o son. I've been driving it to work for a few months though. It can barely get out of its own f@cking way. Fuel economy FTW......55 miles one way to work! It will be his in the next couple weeks.

On my build thread, post #45 in the finished pics, look real careful in the background for my work beater.......what's even more gay than a loser blue Supra??????