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sorry... fairly close, but i'll give you a walk through, you want to start with the tire furthest away to ensure all the air is out, so passenger rear, to driver rear, pass front, driver. some times it's eaiser to take the tires off, and if you putt a vac hose on the bleeder, it...

thats your cold start injector, it goes on that funky metal fuel line injecotr, on the bottom side of the intake below the tb area.. that makes starting in the cold easie lol and your first two questions i didn't really fallow..

it really all depends on the mood im in, some times i yank the motor with out tranny, or tranny and motor together , or i'll just drop the tranny, either way it's not hard with extentions and an air ratchet, toyota says to bolt the engines together first then bolt the pp and flywheel...

i have wanted to do this aswell, in theroy, well my therory, it's possible, and you would have a 2.8L 24v turbo motor. which would be teh shit! lol if the bore's are the same dia, best to use the turbo piston's

errr, figured out where i needed to go on notrice, got it squared away, thanks.

yeah sounds like the code 22 is the cold start problem i had, it takes about 10 starts and fires to get enough heat going and gas to stay running.

hmmm.. i cant figure out the mdc site.. i really need to pick up the r154 rebuild kit he has, and i could kill two birds with one stone there..

cool thanks! well i droped the crank and rod's off at the machine shop i'll be taking the flywheel intomorrow after class. i need to replace the fristion disk before it's balenced

ive found a couple places that make oil lines for the ct26, rapid chimp has a set for sale, and supra sport has a set aswell, their both a little different and very close in price.. which is better? and when i upgrade to a large boss style turbo will i be able to re-use these oil...

lol it's actualy my car... the motor's been out almost 10 times this year..

well it took me 2 days to pull the motor, and disassemble the sucka, turns out rod 1 was the culprite, the bearing was pretty nasty but not garbage.. any ways, im going to put all new rod bearings in, and have the rod's resized, destress the rod's , maybe beam polish, and shot pen...

honestly not tring to drag this out further, you both bring great points to the table, after reading the whole thread, i think you guys where missing what each other's points were.. so let's see... true.. stretch gauge is the most accurate way to determine bolt load, sadly you most...

can some one post a night shot of 89+ reverse lights :biglaugh:

of course this never end's, it's a ever lasting battle between me and my car! i swear, i barely have owned this car for a year, and i have had my motor out almost 10 times.. between hg's and other things.. sheesh. any ways, i have big plan's for this motor, weather it's in a celica...

their like a ball bearing /maybe a roller bearin. but it's sealed.. the only diff i know between r154' is some didn't have abs' so you could have to swap parts maybe installed the sensor, or be skrewed.. and have no abs..

yep no boost off the accordian hose.. the power steering line might get boost, but it's so far from the large volume that it may bleed of change slowly, there's a vac line on the back of the mani i think for the egr, tap that with a T and put the map sensor around that area', i have...

yeah it's not hard at all, it's the one on the left.. ummm try unpluggin the harness if you got the 3 screws the ecu should be loose, then it's just a matter of pulling her off the little ledge she sits on.. quite simple..

eh working on it, i know what i want done, not sure what it's going to cost me.. she should be comming back out here in a day or two..

your poping the fuses? i have seen combo switches go bad, and not illuminate the tails, head lights, parking lights, and blinkers and brakes work. what happens is the contracts in the switch become corroded/ dirty, some times it's possible to take about the switch and clean every thing...

i had an exhaust shop run a bead around the ends for me..