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notice the ring around the center? and here's the pics of the clutch with rivits.. and one last of the reverse side with no rivit damage..

it will work but you need to have the inside of the steel friction taken to a machine shop and enlarged.

nah, i didn't make that mistake. i just finished a 2 year t-ten program and when i did a mkiii clutch at school my teacher pointed it out to the whole class that this clutch was different, a pull type, i allready knew that, but what i didn't know is that the springs on most clutches go towards...

the only part that will need greese is the tranny input shaft, and dont use alot, if you have a drill with a wire brush head it makes for quick clean up of any rust so the clutch moves smoothly, and just add enough greese to coast the shaft, you dont want greese being shoved into your cluthc...

do not use a stock style clutch disc, the center rivits rub on the friction they hold the clutch from fully engaging, i'll post pictures tomorrow, but it's a no go with a oem clutch disk for sure!

??? thought you were buying one from mark?

how is the condition of your wiring harness?? when you are cranking does your tach move??

i Run my car hard all the time and dont have rod knock and its been a year. Rebuild the motor with new pistons and have every thing checked and replaced (bearings, seals, hoses). New oil pump shimmed correctly, etc. Your starving your motor of oil when you drift, so dont do it.

make sure both head and deck are surfaced, some say it's not needed, but if you want a good seal have it done, i blew a mhg by doing the head alone, also bearings are a good choice, if you replace the rod bolts make sure they are check for proper round, and if needed have them resized to...

I cant fking believe this shit. I own a snake and this offends the hell out of me. He was HARMLESS and stuck, you could of removed him with a pair of gloves and put him in the grass instead you cut off his head? Thats fking cruel dude. No respect

is that a completed destroked motor???? looks with prob's and arp studs. is that a short or a long mani? specs on the turbo? set up looks very good,

way to go green! you actualy just ran my first time, a 15.3 or what ever in my turbo supra. i now have it down to 13.5 but every one has to start some where

you must be NA =P. nice race

fuel cut most likely, check all your hoses for a leak.

oh i was also going to say check your cat and vaccume readings. , also di a snap throttle test.

you have to go stand alone to raise your redline from 6550 to above 7-8 k you could put it on the dyno and have them adjust the timming for best top end performance..

Don't put a JDM motor in your car without rebuilding it and putting in a MHG. You will have problems.

My girlfriend wants me to build her a n/a auto supra so she can get rid of her current car. She wants a turbo, but I said after a year of driving a n/a she can have one lol.. She said it has to be black with pink flames.

2.5 is a good since to use , i really like my set, the less couplers you use, you wont have as many boost leak problems

ive seen 49 or so advanced.. thought i notice through alot of part throttle boostin it's at 29*