No sweat. Your car can tell you whats wrong half the time, which is a lot better than we can do, so take the time to ask it. It's much quicker too.
As Aaron stated, get rid of your stock clamps and or worm drives & step up to T-bolts. For good measure, replace as many of your couplers...
Don't settle, you have far too much money tied up in this thing to settle at this point. I've worked on your parts, but fortunately, I haven't touched you compressor housing yet. Let me know if you want it back so you can swap it.
I own & operate a rebar detailing & estimating company. I basically unfuck the structural design for Engineers. Pays well, but I have to work a shitload of hours, usually 70+ a week. This is one of the reasons my car isn't running again as of yet, no time to put it back together.....
Hmmmm, five replies since this post & no response. That's not nice....
If you would have taken the time to CHECK YOUR CODES, you could have immediately been able to tell if there is a boost leak if you would have had code #34 show up, but we didn't take that route, did we....
OMG, this rocks! Is there even the slightest chance that you could write a small piece of code that says " if AF > 14.0, then pull timing"?? Basically, pull timing to save the motor when an injector or fuel pump fails?
Check the keyway in both the HD & the crank. If the one on the HD is ate up, get a different one. If the one in the crank is ate up, well, JB Weld might be your new buddy....
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