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damn, I was hoping that wasn't the answer. guess I'll have to map them myself. thanks for replying anyway.

Can anyone point me toward a complete wiring diagram (TEWD?) for the JZX90 or maybe just pinouts for those specific connectors? I'm struggling coming up with any useful info. I think the one I have a wire sticking into is sort of like our B1 body plug. That pin goes to the starter solenoid...

Good to hear. The post office screwed me out of the first doward bbk adapter kit I ordered. They delivered a torn, empty box, then wouldn't refund me short of going to court over it because I couldn't "prove that the missing item was worth what it was insured for." (Can you believe that...

D'oh. working out bugs like that can be a PITA, nice to see you figured it out.

great stuff.

I hatched a plan to deal with the hole I cut there in the trans tunnel: 1. Cut a rectangular section out of the trans tunnel of my parts car, around the stock shifter hole, big enough to cover the "affected region" 2. Clean up the metal, strip paint/undercoating. 3. Tack the tunnel section...

To get off undercoating without a ton of hassle, a wire wheel attachment for an angle grinder (as opposed to a normal drill) works well. The other way which potentially makes less of a mess is a heat gun and chisel but it takes longer.

I actually held off on trying to start the engine since the gas in the tank is really old. That will need to be drained and filled with fresh stuff, then I'll probably run the pump a little to get the old stuff out of the rail... Here are some pictures of the shifter I made: high...

Fuel pressure is 42psi, no leaks. Theres about 2.5qt of extra oil capacity with the cooler and plumbing for the 12v oil pump. Oil flows through the engine when I run the 12v pump, which I used to pressurize the oil system prior to turning it over with the starter. Starter is wired and...

Here's what I plan to use for LED tails: http://www.amazon.com/Hitlights-Flexible-Ribbon-Adapter-included/dp/B005MSAKZK I have used the warm white rolls for indoor lighting, too.

odd, I'm pretty sure my mkiv cable fit taut without even having the adjustment nuts all the way out like that.

] Mounted. AN-14 (7/8") fit here to replace the ripped original. The pipes needed to be bent a little to line up with the flange on the pan.

Ugly dipstick brace, but it works. This will be the return from the oil pressure regulator hooked up to the external 12v oil pump. Mounting the oil cooler was made pretty easy by the modified rad support. I started seeing flashes, so..

Nice day for work. dremeled off the now-unused fuel return line I needed to connect these two pipes since the oil-to-water cooler is gone. I made a brace for the location the PS pump normally would attach to the AC compressor. (Inspired by someone else on here..)

Oh, cool... I didn't realize the inserts looked that way on the underside. That makes quite a bit more sense. I thought they were blocky washers like in my drawing.

So, I've seen a few people building 7M heads machine out the stud hole to press in a heavy duty washer. The idea is that having a harder landing under the head stud nut prevents the aluminum from softening/collapsing and causing a lack of tension on the head. My question is: Is it really...

The timing cover got milled with the block, too, right? It's not attached there so just wanted to make sure.. IIRC some people have made a costly mistake in not machining the timing cover too, because then their heads don't seal. edit: NVM I don't see resurfacing the block on your list of...

What's the link to your CRV build? You should put it in your sig. :)

Damned bolt fairies get me all the time, too. The pan looks nice. It also looks like the stock brace that goes across the back of the crossmember won't fit there anymore. Any plans to replace it?

I'm not sure why that looks all sepia like instagram. Glare from the sun, I guess. Just a couple of really low quality pictures of engine/trans before "final assembly", and this: