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i have one, but bust out your knee pads, its gona cost.... Dont pay to much! They are all 20 years old! If you had the $$$ id heavily consider going speed denisty and not having to worry about the damn thing anymore. figgie what do you run for air metering purposes?

All good subjects of the supra congregation read the BIBLE Your car will thank you and so will your wallet.

unplug the afm and you can at least make it home in limp mode. sounds like shes toast. mine got worse and worse and finally decided it wasnt going to let the car start.

you re did the jumper after a drive and the timing was off? or did you just hook the light up and look at it?

Do a compression test and block tester to verify good or bad hg.

LMFAO holy shit thats sig worthy!! get the coolant flushed, your about to need a new radiator and coolant lines. Coolant isnt like cool aid, you cant mix colors/flavors and have it all taste good.

hall of shame?! nooo sticky this shit, good info!

the lose of power from a clutch fan is minimal. There are PLENTY of ways to make up the 5-10hp when you stick the clutch fan back on. < hint, hint

mark 8 fan too, bit bigger then the taurus fan but a bigger alternator would be inorder. it pulls huge amounts of air and monster amps so your wiring better be A++++

isnt that the fucking truth^^^ LMAO

:: IJ. :::: badger ::::dead horse::

bust out the ol voltmeter, its time to play ;) google : TSRM, and select the first website it brings up. start with that and see where you get and post up anything you cant figure out, oh and idle is controlled by the ecu, not a screw, and low vac, high idle sounds like a bunch of unmetered air

no no no, you did it all wrong. If you didnt get at least one black eye or busted hand or cut up finger, im not buying it that you worked on a mkIII. ;)

trd clutch fan off a tundra other wise leave the stock fan alone.

its the tray that the plugs and plug wires go through in between the two valve covers. there are four 14mm allen head bolts (big ol allen head) that holds it inplace. those bolts go right into the oil passages in the head. try this for a diagram: nun, the n's are valve coves and the u...

third valve cover... mine coats my back plugs within a 1000 miles or so. tossed in a few oil plug gaskets and oil stays where it belongs.

^ do you have to re do the entire tq sequence or can you tq the one or two that are loose?

why would you abuse the car at the track when you knew before hand that it is making a knock/clack/click that you your self said isnt normal?

are you asking if it matters which wire connects to which connector on the temp sensor?