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It's laid out all right here. http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/fi/FI_103.html

If the car feels like it's missing under boost, it's most likelyl your plug gap. I couldn't run 18 psi on the stock gap. I now run a gap of .028. I can (and have) run 30 pounds with that.

I will disassemble an oil pump, clean it, oil it during reassembly, and then check it via the TSRM. I've been told that a lot of NEW pumps are out of spec concerning the clearances between the gears and housing. If you buy a new one, I would check it out. You should also get a new oil...

I don't know why everyone says that earl's part is sooooo hard to find. It's in their catalog under carb fittings. 991945 is the earls number. That is a -6 to 12x1.25. Then you'd need a -6 to -4 reducer, a 989206. Below is a link for the metric adapter...

If you change the rear main, but sure you put some lube on it prior to install. Otherwise, you'll be changing it again in 300 miles. I'm a fan of.. if it's not broke, don't fix it. I've never changed out a rear main when doing a clutch job. YMMV.

i've had a racegate for 6 years and have never had this type of problem. You need to disassemble it, and clean the valve off. I bet there is lots of carbon on it.

Michael is correct. The honeycomb just straightens out the airflow to ensure there are not vorticies or anything like that messing up the afm. As long as you can create a straight flow (funnel ram), you will be just fine.

From ferrea's website. Both are stock sizes. 7m exhaust (mm) diameter = 27.5 stem diameter= 6 length = 98.05 tip length = 4 2jz exhuast (mm) diameter = 29.0 stem diameter = 5.98 length = 99.01 tip length = 3.5

Buddy has 1.5mm o/s vavles in his mk3 head. They are stock toyota 2jz valves. Its tight. With Ross pistons, its still a non interference engine too :) They may have had to cut the length of the valve down slightly. machien shop didn't elaborate, they just put them in. Altho I can see...

Nevermind.. I'm wrong. :) That is just a stock toyota turbo with a bigger compressor wheel. Nothing specail aside from the high price. Go to www.turbochargers.com for a better deal.

OH.. FWIW.. those pistons are fine ot use. No problems that I can see. Your engine guy is wanting to make some money off you from the sale of a set of pistons.

Sooo.. you paid 600 for a set of used pistons???? I'm 100% SURE you can buy a NEW set of JE's for that much. Who cares about rods? These rods have nothing special aside from a set of ARP fasteners They are a used set of rods that must be reconditioned before use anyway. Now you need to...

Bottomline.. it depends on what you want out of it. I'm sure there are some stock turbo guys running around on an AEM. Then again.. there are people like me who run a "big" turbo on a real header who are using the hackjob piggy-back stuff.

You guys should state where the probe is. Anything taken after the turbo is meaningless.

I still use it. I really don't take out much fuel, its more of a fine tuning device. I did plan to go with the new afc with the user specified points of adjustment and the +-50%. There is more adjustment in the newer ones. FWIW.. I'd ditch this and go AEM if I had the cash.

No breakin required for a turbo. Pour oil into the feed port of the turbo.. spin the wheels and let that oil work thru the bearings, pour a bit more oil into the feed port, install turbo, pull a bar of boost out of the driveway. It is however, very important to prime a turbo. Which is hte...

Is the outside ring going to seperate from the inside? If it does, I'd say you have a faulty pulley. Its a clearance fit anyway with the pulley. Should slide right off with no problems. In fact, the last time I pulled a 7m apart, I pulled the crank pulley off with my hands. Slides right...