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At a cost of $300 thru autozone. It's a VERY costly part, but a very accurate (laboratory accurate) and robust part. Much more tolerable to leaded fuel compared to the bosch sensor. Luckily, I bought a new one when they weren't near as expensive as they are now. I even got it at cost when...

I've got a new GE pump that I'll let go. PM me for info.

FJO

Stress relieved via shot, IIRC. The owner took a set of rods to a local (to him) Formula 1 shop (lab or something to that effect). They told him those rods would take whatever he threw at them. Very beefy. I would have no problem in throwing anything at a set of stock rods.

I would like to know what really happened to the motor. The rod isn't going to snap when on the highway. It has to be an oiling issue where a bearing failed, or a piston was cracked earlier and eventually failed. These beefy rods just don't snap in half. FWIW, I've been at 500 crank hp...

The cost of boring a motor is problee $10-$30 a hole. They are still going to hone it, cut the rods, deck the block, cut the head, line hone the mains, polish the crank, ect. You'd save a hundred bucks.. if that. I say keep it together man. :) Put that money into a savings account to...

You want to know the "secret" to having a long life motor? Run it rich. Run it 11.0 to one or around that. If you notice toyota makes these cars run in the 10s under boost, and they last for 200k miles. That's how you make them last. Heat is bad. Really, you can run any amount of power...

Nonsense.. I've been around a while that's all. I've learned a bunch, forgot a bunch, and can never learn enough.

Bah. Just put an extension into the pin, and tap the piston/pin assembly on a bench. The pin will come right out. Very easy to do.

Why the hell would you rebuild a perfectly running motor??????????? Go out and buy a JDM motor if you want to rebuild something.

you gotta PM.

Ataboy!! :icon_cool

buh bye turbo...

Are they plugged in?? Same location for both plugs.

You problee had the arp studs with the allen head. That's how you got them in. Back before that, only way it could be done was to do what I recommended. I don't know if I like to do that or not. I'd rather not have to find those tiny dowel pins with a heavy ass 7m head in my hands while...

ya know what I'd do... I'd get a set of arp bolts and try out the MHG. It may work out for you. It may not. It is a project car so you can afford for it to not seal. take a chance on it. :) or you can do the sure thing and run a stock headgasket with stock bolts torqued to 75lbs. That's...

When sizing the return line, you double the feed. -4 feed and -8 return. THis is outlined in the book maximum boost by corky bell. I've had zero problems with -4 and -8 in 65k miles. THis same book also claims that anything more than -4 on a feed line is not needed and possibly harmfull.

Excellent job!!!

I'm not a fan of doing a metal headgakset without machinging the block. I find lots of the times, you must do it over. Also, head studs are nearly impossible to do with the block in the car as well. One must remove the trans, and tilt the rear of the motor up and remove the large and very...

Just drive the car and let the ECU figure things out. There is nothing wrong with the car. It is running just as it was designed. You are unable to tune any condition that is in closed loop. You'll make a change, and the ECU will do whatever it wants.