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I would like a Volvo s60r. That's be a ballin' whip.

Incorrect. The problem isn't the springs/retainers, the problem is the shim over bucket configration. A high lift cam will grab the edge of a shim, and kick it out. When this happens, you get to purchase a new cam. Also the head may need to be modified in order for the high lift lobes to rotate.

Not anywhere close to stock. It's a basemap that you have to modify heavily. It just gets you somewhat "close" to a running car. If you don't know the software well, and/or can tune, you might be in over your head. It's a learning curve that some may find too steep to climb.

I could only get 2 or 3 turns on my 1/4NPT adapter for the water neck. I ran a 1/4NPT tap into that hole and things went much smoother. The tap removed very little metal. YMMV.

It's the owner of that site... i dunno about that guy...

Here's your list. ct-26 57 trim upgrade 550s lexus afm afc intercooler full exhuast filter bosche bov boost controler clutch new mk4 fuel pump That will do 320 to the wheels for a very long time. You may not even need the afc. Run it stock toyota rich on the highest pump octane...

High EGT's are signs that timing is being pulled. You said your a/f ratio looked good... what was it numericaly? And how high did those EGTs go?

The car wouldn't able ot be smog'ed at that point. This car is smogable in CA. That's crazy and would be an instant few grand more to the value of the build.

I would highly suggest you clean those injectors as well. Send them to one of the multiple places on the web that do that. Search on here for injector cleaning.

I know of a tad over 800 on stock shot peened rods. I'm sure the car was driven like it was stolen at that level. The owner took a set of rods to a local F1 "laboratory". They told him to throw everything he could at those as they are extremely beefy pieces. He did 800+ and 8k rpms on that...

Reign.. there are plenty of mk4 guys out there using twin in tank walbros. I don't know why you'd stipulate that it has to be 7m powered. An engine is an engine. If one is concerned about one pump dropping out while under boost, setup a warning light that illuminates should a/f ratios go...

In.

IIRC, when I was planning a big setup, the A1000 wasn't large enough to fuel six 800cc injectors. 4800cc is 457 lbs/hr of fuel @ 43psig. Run only 20psi on top of that 43 and you're suddenly running out of pump. To run 30psi on those 800s you'd have to run a base pressure of 25psi. That's...

That turbo is no where NEAR spooled at 4k. It hits it's torque peak at a hair after 5k rpms. That's about where its "on". You could possibly get that to spool quicker with some timing changes in the lower revs.. 500rpms at the absolute best. Still no where near the 3500 - 4000 limit that was...

700hp and full boost at 4k isn't going to happen. I guess you could do it with a very large shot of nitrous. I guess that's a possibility. No way on just one power adder tho. Sorry.

I would run as big of a wastegate as possible. Always better to not be on the edge.

Firstly, you'll need a real T4 based manifold to mount the thing up. A new downpipe as well. My buddy had a 60-1 and moved up to a 67mm. He noticed a tad bit more lag with the 67mm. P-trim .7 hot side on both of those IIRC.

Booooo!! I gotta werk. Booooo!!!

I've got pictures of the RPS header... but I can't find them. Plus.. they were shot back in 2000 with a digital camera of the same vintage. So they ain't too good.

WHy loosen he mounts?? No need. Just jack up the front of the motor a few inches. The motor is now tilting foward so jacking up the front a bit should help things out tremedously. Again.. no need to loosen motor mounts. It's not going to move around in the mount anyway when you lift it.