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And grim, saying any turbo cars AFM would work, is that correct? Cause I believe I read there are 2 different plugs for the turbo cars for the AFM.

I had the same thing happen to me. My car would run like crap but only at times. What I ended up finding after almost losing my mind testing and retesting everything, there is a brown wire that comes off your AFM that will T up with a brown line off your ECU temp switch. My wires were all...

Which heater core lines do you need? I have a few sitting around here that im not going to be using.

There is a ground point on the intake side of the coil bracket. It grounds by the fuel rail between the throttle body and the fuel pressure regulator. That should be all you need. I'll try and get a picture of it tomorrow to show you exactly what im talking about. And I believe u can get the...

You know what you can tell me im wrong all you want. When you actually explain the purpose of the cold start injector and prove you know what your talking about then I may listen. But coming back with YOUR WRONG, plain and simple. Well I guess that is going to make me rush back out to go back...

I had the same issue with my car. Because the gauges will cycle on start up, and the temp gauge will sit where it was when removed. So turn on the acc when the engine is cold (let it sit over night) and pull the needle off, turn the acc on, then put the needle at cold. That way it has...

Then please explain as to what the purpose of the cold start injector is? Because from my readings i find that its there to add fuel in a cold start situation when the air is more dense and thus able to pack extra air into there, possibly causing a lean mix. Since there is not an idle air...

Pull your accordian tube and make sure the turbo shaft has little to no play in it. Then I believe the turbo outlet is 2.25" but I would have to measure it to be 100% I'll try to do that tomorrow to be sure. Hell you could do it yourself with a tape measure. its really not hard.

Good luck with that dash removal. Im in the process of doing the same right now, so I can dump out the heating and cooling system and get rid of some other stuff, and start getting ready to make my new dash. ( wanna go a lil origional on it ) Atleast your fix was something simple.

Umm so you had reverse glow gauges installed into the dash right? Who ever did the install more than likely didnt install the cluster and have the accessories on when they installed the needles back on the gauges. You have to do that for the temp, because otherwise it wont read correctly. Buy...

Thats just wrong. Are your knees hurting?

Yes you needed puller fans. If you stagger the two fans, and have them both working together. IE the pusher in the front, and the puller in the engine bay, you should be cooling quite well. Simple things like the wrong oriented fan can cause a major problem for cooling. hope everything works...

I would also like to reccomend getting a bigger/better turbo aswell. you can get a 57trim upgraded housing for the ct26. It flows better, and will create more HP and be more effective than the stocker. Plus the stock ones kinda blow. For about 600 bux for the upgraded turbo, you may as well.

First off, the cost of over 4k to do that is friggin nuts. I am still waiting on back ordered parts, and then sending my motor in to get built. Im in northern IL and have a good machine shop. The head getting surfaced to an RA of atleast 12 or better, a mild port job, 3 angle valve job, new...

Check your MAF. Non metered air getting into the system will do that. If your turbo, check your intercooler and piping for leaks, and them make sure your mass air is plugged in, and if your NA, make sure all your pipes are free of leaks, and then check the mass air. That would be my best...

COP setup is grounded thru the plug itself. The non COP isnt. Non cop is mounted to the bracket. The bracket needs to be grounded. you can really ground it anywhere on the head. There is a bolt next to the throttle body with a nut on it that mine was on. Right by the fuel rail, between the...

Check the resistance of the line off the alt to the battery. Those get old and corroded after 20+ years, and offer alot of resistance. They are easy to replace, and pretty simplistic. I would start there. The starter not working right is a common problem with these cars. Its a wiring issue...

Well I know after I fixed the wires that were broken, I have yet to have an issue of the car dying on me again. It ran fine for the 5-6 months I had it running after I fixed those lines. I have it on stands in the garage right now preppin to pull the motor to get it rebuilt. Damn thing has...

I dont remember seeing the plugs on my 86.5 na i had when i pulled it all apart. Not to mention the ECU for the manual wont control the tranny of the AT. So swap the ECU's and harnesses around. Only time i hear of people using a manual harness on an auto car, is when they go with a GM tranny...

TSRM is the toyota service repair manual. Get a haynes manual and do your research. Did you plug the harness in for the ignition coils? Did you reground the ignition coil bank?