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I fixed the fuelcut issue, removed all safc corrections, re adapted it, got it boosting 16 or so lbs, goes plenty rich at 35psi fp, just taking a bit too long to go rich, also got tps code, so im assuming thats why it hesitates to go into closed loop. so Im on the right track now, so do you mean...

I had heard that with lex afm and 550s you want to lower the fuel press to around 25-27 so i started there. stock per tsrm is 30 i believe. when I did this it ran and idled mint, o2 did its corrections cruising, but on boost wouldnt go rich, therefore i upped fuel press and added fuel, Im just...

Ok, however what I was wondering is, what are people running for a base fuel pressure, and how much are you having to add via safc. It just seems like 35psi fp and 20-25% fuel correction just to get it to 11 or 12 is not right. Also Im only getting 12lbs of boost before fuelcut, with lex afm...

11.5 is a pretty agressive tune for stock pistons. as far as i know a forged piston tune is 12 12.5

Okay so I searched a good bit for a writeup on how to tune the lex/550s mod well but havent found it again, so decided i must post. Put in lex afm and denso 560s from evo 9 last night. starts well and idles mint. runs and drives just like it should, o2 is cycling like it should. Set fuel press...

what coax cable did people use to do this? I rewired it with rg6 and I seem to still have heatsoaking or something in the wiring,phantom knocks on the safc after excessive driving. thanks

Ive had a similar issue for a long time and gone thru more things than I can remember, still no effect. im gonna look into this too. Is knock sensor wiring a common thing to fail? when I drive it feels just like the car is pulling mad timing but at idle its set correctly. it roars, it boosts...

k thats what I wanted to hear thanks. I think polishing the block by hand and tossing the mhg on will be an experiment for my second car i just picked up for 1000$

The only issue was that I didnt machine the block which was a mistake, hindsights 20/20. Its just leaking by boost into the water jacket very slightly, hot air bubble passes the guage sender and temp fluctuates, not even any oil in water or water in oil or noticeable consumption as of yet. so as...

okay so between these two options, which would be the best: 1: stock hg and my arp headstuds, sprayed with halomar blue, or 2: dare to sand the block and head with various grits to attempt a close to mirror finish, and clean viton off of the mhg and seal with halomar. I know this would be...

yea so once again I was asking what would be the best option as stated above. I dont skimp on things though it is my fault because I never heard that I should machine the block until it was back together or else I would have. my fault for not researching. so, "which option would be more...

Okay so I had a similar question. first of all I installed a hks mhg and arps and had the head planed, not the block. I know I should have done this now but didnt at the time. it held for a few months but seems to be leaking now... so which option would be more legitimate, throw a composite hg...

yea stock is 1.3 and the head was planed, the block didnt need to be planed its cast iron, if it moves I think youve got a problem. so yea ive got slightly higher compression than stock.

thing is Im led to believe that its something else, something ignition related that is effed, but is being reverted back to default values when I unplug the o2. I tried a good o2 and it didnt help. it runs fine until it is up to temp. also it doesnt seem to be overly rich... actually the o2...

3 inch turbo back, apexi power intake, hardpipes and fmic, gates timing belt, arps and hks 1.2mhg on a fresh head and low mileage block, 10 psi.

Okay so I posted about this before and I still havent been able to solve this. car starts up fine but once it gets up to temp it hesitates on any sort of throttle, not just boost, and has poor acceleration. then when you come down to idle it idles badly, occasionally coming out of it. It throws...

So I cleared the codes and changed the cps with a spare and retimed it and also checked the tq on the headstuds. none of that helped but it threw 24 "air intake temp sensor" looked in my repair manual and couldnt find the location of the ait sensor... is it only on the ge or on the turbo motor...

Okay so i was looking at a few things and my plugs are kinda lean... not really bad but it doesnt add up cuz shouldnt I be running rich with missing and hesitation... I would think that I should be rich if theres poor spark.. code 21 is o2 signal and doesnt that encompass anthing that messes...

Thats what I was thinking, cps probably bit the bullet,im gonna throw a spare on it and retime it. as far as heatgunning the radiator its a brand new aluminum radiator and its not clogged. the coolant temp thing was a one off thing nothing to do with the hesitation and Im gonna replace that too...

Its better under boost but still powerloss and it seems like if I give it to much it could be blowing the spark out? I changed the coilpack and no difference but it could be cps or ignitor chip? thanks Il look into the tps that would make sense too i just would have figured it would throw...