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So I got my hands on a better timing light and on close inspection, the spark is a little intermittent. it will spark a couple times then miss a couple..... tried a different cps and was even worse. checked the connectors of the cps and its all fine, cleaned the magnetic pickups in the cps and...

Yea thing is it has spark though. since the beginning of this thread it has always had spark, fuel, and compression. only thing I can think of is maybe the spark looks a lil weak. Spark is at 10 deg btdc, Its got 12v to the coil connectors, I just threw another coil and some ngk wires on it...

So I checked fuel pressure jumpering the fuelpump, and it has 50 psi and holds. but when I just crank the car it also has 50psi. Is this normal, im assuming because theres no vacc removing pressure from the fpr? if there was 15 lbs of vac it would bring fuel pressure at idle down to around 35.

If it was a faulty cam pos sensor and wasnt getting the signal to spark, it wouldnt be sparking, but it is sparking.

how can you not go by the notches when its all keyed to the correct positions? In any event, its not 180 off you can see piston 1 at tdc thru the plug hole.

So thanks for your help everyone, Im just going to pull this motor and use the head and block In my winter teardown of my other supra, seeing as it has a new oilpump, bearings, rings pistons etc. Was just trying to see if I could get it running in car first, but as snows about to fly here in...

they both go to the negative on the battery.

Its inserted into cps in the correct marks and yes it is around 10 deg via timing light with it cranking. i know this will have to be readjusted with t and e1 jumped but seeing as spark is occuring at 10 deg before with it cranking shouldnt it be enough to start? It always has before on my...

Thats what I was thinking. plugs are wet but no ignition, despite the fact that there is spark and timing is close enough to start.

Yea I just verified this on my other car, theres 12v to both sides... So yes i am wrong but you laid down no facts backing up what you said....so Im sorry I didnt take it to heart. you said it may pulse 12v on the wire when unplugged, you didnt sound too sure. So yes you are right.

The connector should have a constant 12v wire and a ground which the ecu pulses to fire the injector. there should never be 12v to the ground of the plug at key on power. At this point I know this is the issue, just a matter of where the short is. furthermore theres the exact same voltage...

what do you mean plugged in or unplugged. The connector coming from the wiring harness that clips to the injector has 12v on both wires, measured from the female connectors in the plug with it unplugged. plugged in or unplugged, it should never have power running through the ground. ( for...

Okay so I was just poking around with a multimeter and for some reason I have 12 volts from both wires of an injector.... theres a short somewhere.... the fuel on plugs may have been only from cold start injector and not enough to start it??? any obvious spots where injector wiring would be...

I can just ground the injector to cause it to spray i believe.... should have 12 volts to injector with key on? Il check fuel pressure and see if I can find something to spray in cyls to possibly start it on.

so I figured out the no crank, connector to the solenoid came off the starter. fixed that. still cranks no start, im gonna check fuel pressure next when I get a chance.

Yes I aligned it, and not only that but if you read above in earlier posts, it is set to around 10 degrees, verified by a timing light, which will need to be rechecked/reset when the motor is actually running and idling, but should start where it is timed. so yea there is spark at around 10 deg...

Yea firing order is fine 163425. and nope i haven't checked pressure, just jumpered fp, listened to it rushing, and when I crank it the plugs are wet and are blatantly covered in fuel. next step is to check pressure and all that but check this out.... So I was checking the grounds under...

yea compression was between 135-150 across all, which is a little varying, but i dont know if thats normal as these rings/pistons/walls have never been broken in yet? Crank pulley tdc mark lines up with 0 deg mark of lower timing cover, and cams line up with the upper timing cover mark. so...

As stated in the original post, I checked fuelpump, which has been replaced, have tried jumpering it (fp and b+) its definitely working as theres fuel on the plugs. compression is fine, cam timing is dead on, ignition timing is as close to 10 degrees as one can set it with a timing light without...

So Im trying to get a 90 turbo running that has recently been rebuilt, Has fuel, spark and compression but wont start. It just burbles a bit like it wants to start. compressions fine, cam and ignition timing are on, fuelpump has been replaced and you can hear it flowing hard when its jumpered...