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Certainly no shame in having a shop press out bearings after you've removed the needed assembly from the car. Having the right tools makes that a breeze and given the likelihood (very low) of regular joe's owning a proper bearing press means this sort of thing might be best left to a shop for...

Hmm, well fuel cut means the ECU thinks you're beyond the fuel map (too much air). Can you tell what air flow and fuel trim settings the SAFC is using? Sounds like it's a little off - perhaps playing it way too safe, tricking the ECU to thinking there's more air than there actually is. This...

Are you going rich when you hit fuel cut? Do you have larger injectors? FWIW, I'm not sure you can go much past 14 psi with the OEM injectors.

Haha, funny guy. No problem. I actually have lots of video and pictures saved on my PC doing similar explanations, just not directly aimed at a given prompt from anyone else. I just haven't had time to finish/publish them. I'm trying to get my site ramped up, but I just never make the time...

Oh, nevermind, you got it right. I thought the connector was the drum/cylinder thing. Looks good!

The fuel pressure VSV looks backwards to me. That and your T is more at home in a garage than an engine bay, haha. I'd grab something like this from your local car parts store just to clean that up a bit.

Rest Pressure. Interesting. Never heard that term before. I have very similar symptoms to OP periodically, but thought it was because I have an open element filter in a hot engine bay. I'll have to check my FPR tonight. :) Thanks for the knowledge JJ!

I'm always happy to help someone that can read/comprehend and is appreciative (unfortunately those can be rare qualities at times). I'll help where i can. :) The VSV directions: I'm not sure how they'd work going the wrong way, but the OEMs are always installed so the drum looking thing is on...

BPV just needs vacuum signal post Throttle Body, so yes, that capped elbow nipple on the front of the plenum is fine. Fuel pressure regulator: The VSV controls if the Regulator sees vacuum or not. The VSV should be plumbed to a good vacuum source on one end and plumbed to the VSV on the other...

Post updated. Hope that helps. I need to start uploading more stuff so if you have other questions I might make an excuse to do more.

Youtube video uploading now to explain what you have/don't have and need/don't need. Meanwhile, you may find some info useful from the links in my sig. I have a couple good threads here and my own site, yotamd.com . I'll edit this post with the video link. Video: https://youtu.be/jWfZlWrQBk8

If you relocate the power steering reservoir to the back corner, remove cruise control, use a JDM throttle assembly and relocate the fuel pump resistor and/or ignitor it goes a long ways to cleaning up the bay. It's a decent amount of extra wiring work though. Fuse box relocation and battery in...

There's not a lot more you can remove, but you can reroute just about anything. Look into COP mod for the ignition coils. That really cleans up the engine bay. Aside from that you could move some electronics into the back of the bay, but you'll need to extend the wiring harness. If you do that...

I'm not sure if Driftmotion is the Toyota OEM or not. If it's below $80 it may be a FelPro brand or other. I have always used the Toyota OEM HG from a Toyota Dealer. My local dealers are a RIP OFF when compared to the good online dealers. Think mark ups of 50% or more. I use Champion Toyota...

The hard part about a coated mild steel is that it will deteriorate and soon show through paint and coatings. I had a ceramic coated "SS" cat back start rusting badly after only a couple years due to a "bad batch" of SS. I'm very weary of mild steel (or poor SS) for exhaust, especially right up...

Definitely go for SS. If you're concerned about quality i think mild steel is out of the question. With pre-bent tubing are you planning to do additional pie cuts and welds? I'm not picturing that being easy to line up well. The downpipe dictates the orientation of the rest of the exhaust...

Some are, yes. I think that's mostly because of the tax stamp though. The tax stamp does two things: 1. Makes it more expensive overall. Since there's already a $200 entrance fee into the silencer game (of which the manufacturers have zero control) the costs of the purchase are already...

Well... I mean... it's got more in common (from a factory sense) than any other mk3 made so I think that's at least a partially valid comment, haha. If nothing else, it's a special mk3 variant hardly any of us can say we have.

Don't forget the PATRIOT Act. That's quite a slap in the face.

The removal of the $200 stamp would be the final push I need to motivate myself to pony up the cash for a few suppressors/silencers. With the stamp I still think it's a worthwhile investment. Without the stamp it's a no-brainer for me. I had no idea it was even on the table to discuss the...