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Let us know how it goes- I have a phenolic intake gasket, but it's only like 1.5mm thick. Dunno if it'll do much when I install it.

Well, I've noticed that my car has gotten progressively slower over the last 2 years, I believe due to the mild rod knock issue, as well as a weakened overall compression. I've dropped my new block off at the shop last week, to have it bored/honed out for the probe pistons, then I can assembled...

wonder how they did that...

If the pulley can be rotated back and forth, the keyway is prolly damaged. It CAN be fixed, however. I had a guy mig weld some material into the widened key slot, and then I dremeled the wall vertical again. tight as a bangkok midget.

No.

You can start by grabbing the crank pulley on both sides, and try rocking it forward and back, however, the best way is to simply put a 1/2 inch drive socket wrench w/ 19mm(I believe) socket on there, and see if it tightens. If it is loose, the best way to tighten it enough is to remove the...

Funny- I was about to reply about checking the pulley bolt, as this has happened twice to me, but then I read down and saw you already found it. It sounds worst at low rpm, on starting and shutting down as well. If it's a loose pulley, it'll even screw up your acceleration, and cause a heavy...

I don't get it- this is a .68 A/R hot side. I would expect it to boost fairly quickly. Heck I might even think you'd want a .7-.8 A/R for more top end.

You're seeing 100+psi in what car?

No- replacing slave is VERY easy. It's like two bolts that hold the thing on, and the one hard line. I think you'd need a 10mm and 12mm socket, and a 10mm wrench. It takes literally 5 minutes to replace, and once your done, you just bleed it, which is easier than bleeding brakes since the line...

How many miles on it since the engine work, and did the engine actually overheat during this event? before you call the salvage yard to come pick it up, I would retorque the head bolts if that has not been done since rebuild.

looks good. Reminds me- I saw a Nissan Pathfinder yesterday, all jacked up... It was completely coated in Rhino-tuff liner. Looked pretty cool. Talk about durable finish.

Some hoes... :naughty:

If the window channels/ regulator don't hold the window tight, they will rock back and forth at any intermediate position, and the fluffy things won't hold tight except at full up. Atl least that's my experience.

I replace all my fluffy things, and it didn't help. The real problem is the window regulator. I need to remove mine and see where exactly the freeplay has developed.

Small update with pics to follow- I just dropped off the freshly-decked block for boring and honing, now that I have the Probe forged pistons. The block should be done in about a week. Then I can FINALLY start assembling the short block. Also, I've picked up a Long brand stacked plate-type oil...

say what?

True- I may switch over, once I go to a T-4.

You can get OK stuff off Ebay, just make sure that the gaskets you buy are not just the thin paper style. This intake gasket is crap: This set looks better- rediculously low price...

Go outside right now and retorque your HG to about 70-75 lbs. The spec is 58, and it's wrong. That's one of the main reasons why it blows.