Search results

Thanks- Well, just got back from a 4-wheel alignment. The before-and-after spec sheet shows that camber and caster were only slightly off, but one wheel on each end of the car had a bad toe-in setting. I went conservative on camber, at only 1 degree negative on both ends, and toe-in and caster...

Well, as for the TRD sticker- that was put on the car in like 1996, so...forgive me! And someone liked the 16x8 Mille Miglia's....better? Aside from the curb rash, chipped paint and 16x8 size....ok. Anyhow, I will be getting a 4 wheel alignment today or tomorrow, and will add a touch of...

The color difference? If you're talking about the shipping error- two wheels being lighter color- No. As I said, I shipped them back and got them replaced. If you mean, how does the chromium black match up to the paint color- well, it's pretty much right on.

Hey! I finally get to add to the thread! XXR (Sportmax) 502's in chromium back. front- 18x8.5- offset 35, 235/40/18 rear- 18x9.5- offset 35, 265/35/18

Well, After rolling along(not so smoothly) for the past 12 years on the same old Mille Miglia's- stock size, mind you- I decided she deserved new wheels. So i ordered a set of XXR(Sportmax) 502's in chromium black. Problem was that when they arrived...the fronts and rears were two very...

NICE. .... ...........now lower it.

I have the probes and have never heard piston slap from them(.5mm over)

Axxis Metal master FTW. I've used two sets on my car, and never, ever had squeal. In fact, I once tried 'upragding' to Axxis Ultimate ceramic. They didn't stop or bite any better, they made more dust and squealed. I ended up putting the metallics back in.

Yup, I used long needle nose pliers. Better yet, get some needle nose vise grips, so that you can lock the clamp open.

Awesome. Just wish you'd prepped the rest of the car for paint while it was apart. PAINT IT!!!

yeah, I think I have heard of tapping stright to 7/16's.

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35682 you're welcome. : ) ps- they all require helicoil, but can be done in-car. of course, if you want to go with a 7/16 and not helicoil first, you can always give that a try, but I don't think heli-coiling is that difficult, and it's worth...

When I did my conversion, I removed the motor arms, and cut them about 1" shorter. HOWEVER, It's not really necessary to cut them shorter, although it is necessary to relocate the ballmounts(for the actuator rods) inward that same 1". I just cut them shorter to make it cleaner. And you don't...

looking forward to more pics!

As far as I know, the ONLY differences between the Cressy and Supra blocks is the oil pump and pan. people use the Cressy engines all the time for NA Supra use. PS- I've used the NPR pistons before and had no issues. I would recommend having the rods resized while your block is at the shop...

I used a 30amp relay for each of my two flexalite's. Before I had them wired to directly run off a temp swith, but that would kill the switch in no time. Then I got smart, and went back to stock fan/ clutch/ shroud, and have never regretted it.

Okay, okay...I forgot- Crab cleaner is for traction issues. You use it when you start going sideways. I MEANT carb cleaner. :biglaugh:

Hey dude- Be advised; it looks like the engine you're building is out of a Cressida, not a Supra. The only issue is that you'll have to replace the oil pump with the Supra type, and use the oil pan from your blown motor. The oil pickup on the Cressida's pump, and the shape of the oil pan would...

Normal idle is supposed to be around 700-800 rpm. Another way to check for a vacuum leak, is to idle the engine, and spray a very small amount of starting fluid or crab cleaner around the throttle body, upper-to-lower intake mating area, and where the lower intake runners attach to the head. If...